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Shortoff Mountain
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Made in the shade 
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Twist of fate 
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White Russians Gone Bananas 
Unsorted Routes:

Made in the shade 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: NB and GB
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: nbrown on Oct 17, 2012
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  • Description 

    This is a fun single pitch line on the backside of the Super Crack/Paradise Alley buttress that is a good bit shadier than most lines there. The climbing is trickier than the average shortoff jug fest and is worth a go, despite a brief secton of semi-chossy rock in the middle.

    It can be easily approached by rapping in from the large ledge just below the top of the buttress (instead of doing the step-across move last pitch, climb down about 15' to large ledge, build anchor and rap 90').

    Alternatively, it can be accessed by climbing P-1 of "stopperhead arete" or "lichen express", then moving into the gully to the obvious route on the steep left wall.

    Start by climbing a cool left leaning flake to crux a section protected by 2 bolts. Continue up wall past lots of gear options in horizontal features and a couple tricky pods - including a bomber pink tricam. Maintain the pump factor and continue up to your rap anchor for belay.


    See description and/or topo photo on main page.


    Standard rack, plus doubles in small to medium cams and a pink tricam

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