Made in the shade  5.11b/c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  NB and GB New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  nbrown on Oct 17, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a fun single pitch line on the backside of the Super Crack/Paradise Alley buttress that is a good bit shadier than most lines there. The climbing is trickier than the average shortoff jug fest and is worth a go, despite a brief secton of semi-chossy rock in the middle.

It can be easily approached by rapping in from the large ledge just below the top of the buttress (instead of doing the step-across move last pitch, climb down about 15' to large ledge, build anchor and rap 90').

Alternatively, it can be accessed by climbing P-1 of "stopperhead arete" or "lichen express", then moving into the gully to the obvious route on the steep left wall.

Start by climbing a cool left leaning flake to crux a section protected by 2 bolts. Continue up wall past lots of gear options in horizontal features and a couple tricky pods - including a bomber pink tricam. Maintain the pump factor and continue up to your rap anchor for belay.

Location 

See description and/or topo photo on main page.

Protection 

Standard rack, plus doubles in small to medium cams and a pink tricam