Made In the Shade  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  KC Baum, Tom Archibeque, 6/24/1988 Submitted By:  Jeremy Werlin on May 9, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Far north end of Hidden Valley Wall.

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Description 

P1: Start at a small pillar with two small boulders on top. The left side is 5.9-, the right is 5.7. Continue up and left climbing the obvious crack to a small roof which is passed on the left. Now you're at the sweet part. Climb double hand/finger cracks in a tight slot to fun exit moves through some dike rock and onto a good ledge with chains. You can belay here or continue up the good hand crack (5.7) in the corner to another big ledge with a small pine tree.

P2: Many options exist (5.6-5.8) to reach the top. The rock quality deteriorates on this pitch and you may encounter loose blocks.

I would recommend rappelling (single 70m) from the chains at the top of the first pitch.

Location 

Made In the Shade is on the upper north end of Hidden Valley Wall, almost directly across from Kachina Wings (on the Fortress).

Descent: from top of P1 you can rap from chains with a single 70m. If continuing up P2, walk north to the top of the descent gully and back down a faint climber's trail to the base.

Protection 

Small TCUs to hand-sized. 2 bolts with chains at top of P1.

Photos of Made In the Shade Slideshow

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Looking down the route.