|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Mike on Jan 24, 2011|
|Comments on Made In The Shade||Add Comment|
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By A. Frost
Mar 16, 2011
|Warning: Do NOT follow approach beta for this or any route in Mormon Canyon (besides Earth Angel) as described in Bloom's Castles in the Sand.|
By thomas herring
From: flagstaff, az
Mar 19, 2014
|Not sure if we went the right way for the first two pitches, but I thought they were quality and fun for "choss" pithces. We climbed up to the visible rap anchors for pitch 1 via loose rock to sweet #1 crack. Pith 2 out and left from the belay #3 overhaging crack/chimney to easy stem roof. We didnt bring anything big so ended up traversing left on ledge and up #3 crack to squeeze to a ledge traverse out right and up onto unprotected sweet face climbing to the main ledge below the crux. Seemed like many options to get there. The crux pitch might be my favorite pitch in sedona, the exposure on the roof is awesome!|
By Ryan Z
Apr 6, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I didn't notice any obvious variations on the first pitch. Or the nasty climbing being 1-4 pitches. But that could have just been how we did it.
P1 - 40 feet of junk, ledge, 60 feet of junk, ledge, 50 ft of sweet thin hands, bolted belay 5.9+ (~150ft)
P2 - Move left into a corner, stem and hand jam up and through a chimney roof thing. Followed by some 5.8 OW. Not the best rock on the OW. Gear belay below a roof 5.9 (~100ft)
P3 - Jam out the roof with lots of feet. Pass a ledge and begin 60 feet of amazing fingers on great rock. Gear belay below another roof 5.10- (~130ft)
P4 - Bust out the fingers roof with great feet to a hand and finger crack that pinches to a seam. Move onto the petina face and hope shit doesn't break on you. Climb to a tree belay 5.10- (~100ft)
P5 - Easy chimney and blocky stuff to the top. 5.4 (~60ft).
Descent - (1) 60m rope from top to the tree then (2) 60m ropes get you down in 3 rappels.
I thought this route is pretty sustained and given the rock quality is not inspiring in a handful of sections this would not be a route for a new 5.10 leader.
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|climbed this on 9-26-2015. pretty cool route, little bit more strenuous than the grade lets on, so definitely not for the new 5.10 leader (i think it's harder than coyote tower). also, some of these anchors could really use some love. cut off a shit ton of terrifying tat and replaced what i could with what i had on me. i highly recommend bringing some webbing/cord if you do this route (or chains!)|