Made In The Shade
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|Page Views: ||845|
|Submitted By: ||Mike on Jan 24, 2011|
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David Bloom at the start of the crux pitch of Made...
A fun route in a beautiful spot, up past Earth Angel in Mormon Canyon. Like it's twin route Ambulance Ride, the first few pitches are not so hot, but the upper pitches are awesome and more make up for it. The first 1-4 pitches can be linked with a 70m rope into one loooong, not-that-great pitch with rope drag. However you get there, the fun now begins, with great climbing and solid rock above. The views of Earth Angel and Brins Mesa are spectacular.
Pitch(es) 1-4: Scramble & climb up and right to a belay at the base of a nice off-width. There are several variations to this pitch(es). I recommend finding the path of least resistance and blasting through it using sparse pro & long runners. However you start, just make sure you belay at the base of the off-width.
Pitch 2(5): Up the OW (5.8 or 5.9) then continue up the corner to a nice belay ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3 (6): continue up the corner corner via a sweet finger crack on great rock(5.10-). Keep climbing past a loose block on a ledge, then thru the large, intimidating looking roof (5.10-) to a belay above. The roof is not nearly as hard as it looks.
Pitch 4 (7): Continue up the corner system via an easy chimney (5.5).
To get down rappel the route with 2 ropes.
Located just up-canyon from Earth Angel. Approach as for Earth Angel. About 50 yards before reaching the lowest part of the Earth Angel formation, head up & left, out of the gully, eventually ending up in the next gully left. Bushwhack up this to the base of the alcove, then head left on a long ledge system. The last rappel anchors can be seen from this ledge.
I recommend: 1 set of nuts, a double set of cams from from tight fingers thru #3 camalot, a single #4 camalot, plus one big cam. Several runners are helpful.
The top of Earth Angel, as seen from high up Made ...
|Comments on Made In The Shade
|By A. Frost|
Mar 16, 2011
Warning: Do NOT follow approach beta for this or any route in Mormon Canyon (besides Earth Angel) as described in Bloom's Castles in the Sand.