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Made In The Shade 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Kirk Raney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 10,221
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (236)
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Jeroen about to engage the huecos.

Photo by Jason...
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull out of the alcove, laybacking a hanging flake, to engage the long sustained face above. Be sure to look around and find all the amazing pockets for full value on this one.


Location 

See the topo photo.


Protection 

20 bolts to the (upper) anchors help keep this route easy for its grade. You'll also need something for the chains at the top and at least a 70 meter rope. Even with a 70 meter rope, lowering from the top is a rope stretcher... be sure to tie a knot in the end.

An anchor has also been installed about 25 feet below the original finish, at the top of the slab, to allow ascent with a 60 meter rope; 17 bolts + something for the ring and chain (lower) anchors. As above, so below... be sure to tie a knot in the end.



Photos of Made In The Shade Slideshow Add Photo
A third of the way up on a shady day.
A third of the way up on a shady day.
Made in the Shade.  The bolts are very closely spaced, so it is good for a beginning leader.
BETA PHOTO: Made in the Shade. The bolts are very closely spa...
Drew climbing in the shade.
Drew climbing in the shade.
Mathew leading on Made In The Shade.
Mathew leading on Made In The Shade.
Using 60 meter Mammut 10.2 double dry rope from lower anchors (about 25 feet below top of route).
BETA PHOTO: Using 60 meter Mammut 10.2 double dry rope from lo...
This 70m mammut 9.5 rope was BARELY long enough to get lowered back to the ground!
This 70m mammut 9.5 rope was BARELY long enough to...
Nan starting up Made in the Shade.
Nan starting up Made in the Shade.
A climber on the route.
A climber on the route.
Alison enjoying a romp up Made in the Shade.
Alison enjoying a romp up Made in the Shade.
Mathew about halfway on lead on Made In The Shade.
Mathew about halfway on lead on Made In The Shade.
Comments on Made In The Shade Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 18, 2014
By Alison Conrad
Jul 25, 2008

A 70 meter will not get you on the ground. It takes you to the third bolt where you have any easy downclimb to the the climber's left side. It would be better to take 2 sixties and rap the route.

By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008

Maybe my 70m rope is a bit longer, but I made it to the bottom just fine with about 6 inches of rope to spare.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a really cool route. The crux, and the slab above have a nice flow. Super well bolted, we often found ourselves clipping draws at our waists; however, it is very well suited to someone looking to lead their first .9+...as we all thought the route to be due to the sustained nature of the beautiful slab. Nice and long warm-up, especially when led with two 60s. Young Doug.

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Aug 13, 2008

A 70 meter rope will work just fine. But it is EXACTLY the right length. Any shorter and you're going to have to downclimb.

This is a really fun climb. Is it the longest in the canyon? It is the best warmup. I'd climb it any day. Great work Kirk. I love it!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

No, not the longest.

By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Aug 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very well bolted, a very good climb for a new leader.

Lowering my partner, I reached the (knotted) end of the rope when her feet were just above my head and I had to climb up a ways so her feet could touch the ground and she could unweight the rope and untie. Being quite a bit heavier, I got to the ground on rope stretch.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 29, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Excellent climb. Sustained in rock quality and climbing. Cleaning will help in quality and ease the difficulty a bit.

I echo the comments about a 70m rope being short. I came up short, and even though my rope has lost a meter, it is longer than 115' to ground. 70m = 230' , or 115' rap with one rope. If it is a 125' climb, then you will be short with a 70m rope.

I would certainly support a belay/rap to make it a 2 or 1 pitch climb.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun climb. Bolted well for the grade. 13-20 clips depending on your comfort level. Thoughtful clips, though, to protect ledge falls. My 70m made it. The route could have stopped at the ledge at the second to last bolt, then everyone's rope would make it. No complaints, though, fun long route. The jugs in the middle were a hoot.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Wow! I must have missed some holds..I hate it when you offer up a grade, then everyone comes along and...anyway, still a nice climb! Peace Young Doug

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A really fun pitch with a bunch of 5.9 moves. Well bolted for a 5.9 leader; more advanced climbers may be comfortable skipping a few clips.

My 70m rope (Mammut Infinity Duodess) was not long enough to lower the leader to the ground; it came up about 20' short.

There is a good ledge about 15 feet below the top anchor; I think it would be a good idea to install an anchor here, to allow lowering all the way to the ground for those of us with shorter or less stretchy 70m ropes. The last 15' of climbing is fun, but I think a lower anchor will improve the safety and reduce the hassle factor of the climb.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The halfway point of my 70 was hanging around the 3rd bolt when my partner hit the top. It is all about stretch, mine made it right to the bottom, others won't. Still, not a scary downclimb... or even drop right off the end if you're not too far up.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Sep 28, 2008

New, lower anchor compliments of Bruno Haché. Thanks Bruno.

By Margo
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great beginner lead! Really well bolted and mostly straightforward moves! Some spots require a little thought! New bolts allow for a 60 and 70 meter to get to the ground...route requires about 22 draws or you can skip some of the redundant bolts if you feel comfortable!

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A fun and mellow route with interesting features and positions. A bit obnoxiously overbolted, but, oh well. The existence of the second set of anchors I regard with a bit of confusion and concern. For one, the remaining climbing from anchor #1 to anchor #2 is far from remarkable. But more importantly, lowering from this second anchor with a 70m will get you to the ground only with extreme attention and caution on the part of you and your belayer. Even rope stretch and tippytoes won't get you quite to dirt. To me this is a major shortcoming, considering there are more inattentive sport climbers in the world than there are 80m ropes going around. It is a matter of time before some morons get hurt here.

By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A really fun climb! Steep after the first few bolts but not too pumpy. Thought provoking.

By Jack C Swift
From: Evergreen, CO
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun and interesting route. You are never longing for a bolt. There seem to be 2 cruxes, one just past halfway and the other just below the new (first) anchors. You get your money's worth - a 60m rope just gets you to the ground (10 inches to spare from lower anchors). Thanks, Kirk.

By Tom Pierce
From: Englewood, CO
Aug 25, 2009

Heads Up! My buddy and I climbed this today and concur it's a fun route, but as he was working up the very first moves he pulled on the hanging flake mentioned in the route intro above and a big chunk popped off. We were pretty surprised since the piece was probably 3-4" thick, it looked pretty beefy up to that point. The heads up is that on closer inspection the lower part of the flake looks a bit rotten and I suspect it also could pop off resulting in a potentially nasty ground fall on lead. Just fyi.

By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A bit overbolted for someone solid, but I just skip the unneeded ones. Great for new leaders to push hard, and it's fun to have those areas for them. Nice and sustained but with plenty of rests to milk if you want and good footwork keeps it from being too hard. Be very careful lowering off this route, make sure your belayer knows what they're doing.

By Dan Stackhouse
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I counted 17 bolts to the 60m anchor. Overhang at the bottom is a fun alternate start maybe 9+.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Our 70m did not look like it would get down from the upper anchors, and another group said their 60m didn't make it down from the lower anchors -- everyone's rope is a little different.

Good long pitch!

By Cerri
Jun 23, 2010

My favorite 5.9 sport route! This is a must do if you're there. My 70m rope has always gotten me to the ground.

By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 31, 2010

Another great route, Kirk, thanks! I really enjoyed this, especially the middle section. Our 70m rope worked fine but no extra! These long pitches are great, I'm not sure there was a solid 5.9 move, but there is a lot of climbing on this. I counted 21 clips plus the two bolt upper anchor including one clip at the intermediate anchor.

By Justin Deal
From: Denver, CO
Aug 4, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Just climbed this route. It was pretty fun. I think solid for the grade. I'm a new 5.9 leader, and I got this climb with two takes and no falls. All the talk of 70 meter ropes not getting you to the ground scared me a little, but I used a 70 meter Mammut Tusk 9.8 double dry rope fresh out of the bag, and made it all the way down on rappel with no problems. I would say this climb is a must-do for the area.

By Michael Kopinsky
Aug 20, 2010

The route itself is awesome. Lots of awesome face moves, standing on little edges, very nice route for a new leader.

I climbed this a couple days ago with a relatively new 60m rope, and by the time I had rapped down to the big ledge at about the third bolt, the ends of the rope were still about 6 feet above the ground. I *may* have made it all the way down with rope stretch, but I didn't want to risk it. In the end, I found I could rap down the left side (towards Gondolier Arete) and make it onto dirt with no problem.

Could someone include an exact bolt count getting to the first anchor in the route description? Since most people are climbing with 60s, that seems to be quite a crucial piece of info.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
May 7, 2011

Great warm up with beautiful exposure. Don't make the same mistake I did and only take 11 draws (I should really consider looking at the routes before I climb them).

By slim
Administrator
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Kind of scary reading the comments about the variation in length of people's 70m rope. Our 70 easily made it to the ground from the upper anchor with maybe 5 to 10 feet to spare.

Really fun, long route. Good rock quality, well protected. This is destined to be a classic.

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super long super fun. Like 5th of July but better exposure and much longer. Lower anchors can be done with a 60, but baaaaaarely.

By Chris Barker
From: Denver, CO
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Well bolted. Great first outside 9 lead. Be sure to wear a helmet as the belayer. I got a crabapple kicked a couple of feet from me.

I rapped the top anchors with a 70 meter rope, and I was able to touch the ground, barely. TIE A KNOT FOR SURE. Under rope stretch, you are able to tell if you can reach the ground while standing on top of a significant ledge with a downclimb. Make a choice at this point.

There are 2 anchors at the top. The last 15 feet is not the best part of the climb, so if you have a 60 meter or if you aren't sure, I would just hit the bottom anchors.

By Jeremy C
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

DO IT! Awesome warmup. Great for a 5.9 leader. Tons of bolts. Plenty of rests along the way. My 70m ends up with a foot or 2 extra after rope stretch is gone. Every 60m I've ever used on it gets right around maxed out to the low anchors.

By climberX
Apr 13, 2014

Felt harder than a 9 to me, of course, one of the first, slabby, no hands type of climbs I have done. I would rate it a 10 or 10+.

For the rope length discussion, the group rapping off before us, rapped from the top anchors with a 70m, and she was tippy toes to the ground at the end, maybe 3" off the ground. This probably depends on rope stretch, age of rope, and weight of climber, I am guessing she was 130 lbs.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 18, 2014

In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the first(60m rope) anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.