Made in Japan 

Just a couple of updates to this area. If you plan on parking close to the summit of Donnar Pass, for climbes on school house rock, grouse slabs, star wall, and others, try to park on the road. Sugar Bowl Academy (formerly ASI) does not allow the general public to use their parking lot. If you are going to park there, make sure you are in the dirt part close to the metal shed. The same thing goes for the bathrooms in the school. They legally can not allow public to use them so please dont ask. The closest restrooms are, the outhouse in front of snowshed, donner ski ranch(if someone happens to be there in the summer), and 2 miles back towards I-80 in the cafe. If you have any questions on the area, I do live here part time. There are some great climbes!!!

The first clip is zesty, and a spotter or 3 will definately help in case your hand pops before you get the first draw clipped.

It's also worth noting that there is a new route that is NOT in Carville's book, which sits immediately left of Made in Japan. This route (I don't remember the name) is a 5.12c, and will be an interesting sustained surprise for anyone expecting the .11a Made in Japan.

The easiest way to find Made in Japan is to find the route ON the Arete at the start and finish.

The route you refer to is "Purple Toupee" iirc. It's pretty height dependent but 5.12 no matter how you slice it.

Start just rightof the arete for MIJ! A small finger crack is a good starting point...

Made in Japan is a great route. The first bolt can be sketch, the last moves to the anchors are heady.

Wow.. It's crazy good. Clip the first draw by coming in from the side, then lower and climb it from the bottom once clipped.. Holds are tiny at the top!