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The Bastille - N Face
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Madame Guillotine 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989
Fixed Hardware: 9 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,412
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Apr 20, 2010
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Cruxing on Madame Guillotine.
Photo by Rob Kepley.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Madame Guillotine is a fine sport pitch on the clean, blank-looking face between Werk Supp and Bastille Crack.

Start up Marie Antoinette, a thin crack just to the right of Werk Supp that ends about 20' up. Where the crack ends, embark on a long, rising, bolt-protected traverse to the right (crux). The climbing here is very typical of Eldo: you either have a decent handhold, or a decent foothold, but rarely both!

Before reaching Bastille Crack, continue straight up past more bolts on fun, thin face climbing (5.11). After the last bolt, trend right to meet up with Bastille Crack just below its second belay.

There are a few worthy variations:
If you want a short, single pitch of hard climbing, you can do the crux of MG past the first 4 bolts, and then traverse right into the crux of the Northcutt Start, and finish at the two bolt anchor on that route.

If you want a long, but somewhat easier pitch, you can climb Marie Antoinette through it's crux runout (5.9X), up to the bolt on that route, and then traverse up and right to join the upper half of Madame Guillotine (5.11). Belay on Bastille Crack.

The proudest link-up would be Madame Guillotine into Hairstyles and Attitudes!


Protection 

Many draws and a light rack.

I used a yellow Alien getting up to the first bolt, and then a green and a red Camalot to make the belay on the Bastille Crack at the end of the pitch (fixed pin here as well).



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Scott Bennett.
Scott Bennett.
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By Scott Bennett
Apr 20, 2010

Sorry, I don't have my guidebook with me to check the FA info. Anyone know who put this up?
-Scott

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Apr 20, 2010

FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989.

By Scott Bennett
Sep 24, 2010

A few more variations for those looking to enjoy the upper 5.11 section of MG:
You can start on the Northcutt Start, and continue up the thin corner to start clipping bolts on MG.
You can also Climb Werk Supp to Nexus into the upper 3 bolts of MG.

All are great variation pitches on good rock!

By Brady Robinson
Oct 8, 2012

News Flash - All nine bolts on Madame Guillotine were recently replaced. All new bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" stainless Powers 5-piece. Allegedly completed by masked bandits with bad attitudes and a beat up Bosch.