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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Harry Snyder, 1943
Page Views: 17,381
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006
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Adrian on Madame G's, November 7, 2009
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  • Description 

    Madame G's rivals High Exposure closely for the title of best Gunks 5.6. While High E has "the move", Madame G's has a longer section of sweet, steep 5.6 jugs up a massive, exposed and unique orange buttress formed by large left-facing (Southern Pillar, 5.2) and right-facing (Northern Pillar, 5.4) dihedrals on either side.

    P1: Follow the thin crack to the tree. 5.4, 50'.

    P2: Traverse right into a steep left-facing dihedral, with jugs and jams. At the top, traverse right and belay on a small stance at a horizontal crack. 5.6, 80'.

    P3: Follow the chalk through multiple overhangs on huge jugs and steep terrain. Near the top, angle right through the final overhang and belay at bolts. 5.6, 80'.

    You can combine P1/P2 or P2/P3. The best combination is P2/P3, because you'll skip the semi-hanging belay. Bring lots of long slings - both the climbing and the protection wander.

    Descent: Rap twice down the Northern Pillar side of the buttress, from sets of bolts with a single 60m (or one long mostly-free rappel with 2x60m). The top bolts are somewhat hidden: peek around a large boulder on climber's right to find them. From the clifftop and other nearby routes, you'll need to scramble back down to the top of the buttress proper, then look for the bolts.

    Pre-bolts, climbers had to rappel from the tree at the corner of the buttress - both getting on rappel, and the free-hanging rappel itself, were rites of passage for newer climbers.


    Protection 

    Standard Rack; extra hand-size cams if linking pitches.


    Location 

    The Madame G's access trail is the first one after Minty, about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road. When the leaves are down, you'll easily identify the orange buttress itself.

    To start the route, come around the left toe of the buttress and start atop some boulders below a thin-crack system leading to a large oak tree.



    Photos of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst Slideshow Add Photo
    non necessary finish
    non necessary finish
    Climber at the hanging belay.
    Climber at the hanging belay.
    Skytop and Smiley's Tower from mid way up Madame G.
    Skytop and Smiley's Tower from mid way up Madame G...
    Madame G's upper pitches and rap.
    BETA PHOTO: Madame G's upper pitches and rap.
    Climber about 1/2 way up
    Climber about 1/2 way up
    Starting up the blocky, left-facing corner on P2.
    Starting up the blocky, left-facing corner on P2.
    Looking right to start of Northern Pillar and Guide's wall (face right of arete).
    Looking right to start of Northern Pillar and Guid...
    The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the middle of the face.
    BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
    Paul Deagle - Madam G's 5.6 view from hanging belay
    Paul Deagle - Madam G's 5.6 view from hanging bela...
    Climber following final pitch of Madame G's.  Shot from belay atop Hyjek's.
    Climber following final pitch of Madame G's. Shot...
    Looking down the first rap on Madame G.
    Looking down the first rap on Madame G.
    Johanna bustin' moves on Madame G's, Fall 2008.
    Johanna bustin' moves on Madame G's, Fall 2008.
    Madame G's...at night...in the rain...priceless!
    Madame G's...at night...in the rain...priceless!
    Paul Deagle - Madam G's Final Pitch looking down back at second belay
    Paul Deagle - Madam G's Final Pitch looking down b...
    Climbing Madame G's on a rainy night.
    Climbing Madame G's on a rainy night.
    Climber at the belay
    Climber at the belay
    Comments on Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2014
    By GoBotRocker
    From: Spfld, Ma
    Jul 4, 2006

    Another awesome route, The hanging belay still gets my attention. My second climb of the new year, we did it on New Years day. The climb was bone dry until the top out which was covered with an inch or so of snow...

    By asmith
    Oct 11, 2007

    Best 5.6 in the Gunks. Love this climb

    By adrenalated
    From: Thornton, CO
    Jun 15, 2008

    I wasn't really impressed by the belay opportunities in the middle to the headwall. Better to take some extra runners and link P2 and P3 together.

    By Tim Schafstall
    From: Newark, DE
    Oct 22, 2008

    This climb is even better if you do P1 of Columbia, just to the left as you face the rock. That makes the climb 5.8 though. That arching crack of Columbia is a lot harder than it looks.

    By losbill
    Oct 23, 2008
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

    Definitely makes for a better first pitch. Regarding being harder than it looks, definitely!

    By J Antin
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 31, 2009
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

    Climbed this at night during a rainy Gunks weekend - what a blast!

    By doligo
    Jun 21, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

    This is one of the climbs you gotta save for chilly autumn days and not do it in a 90-degree weather in June. I thought the corner of P2 was more challenging than the the bulge crux of P3.

    By SethG
    Jun 21, 2010

    I'm not sure why you need to save this route for the autumn, any more than any other route. It does get sun, just like most climbs in the Trapps. It is my favorite 5.6 in the Gunks. Did P1 Columbia and linked Ps 2 & 3 of Madame G today-- it was hot but still special!

    By doligo
    Jun 22, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

    The route stays bone dry as opposed to many other routes. In any case, I had huge expectations for this route (I'd never even followed it before), but not enjoyed it as much as other even lesser star .6s in the Gunks, so I blame it on the heat. I can see it being really fun on a crisp fall/winter day with sun warming you up...

    By Barrett Stetson
    Jul 31, 2011

    Found P2 a good bit easier than P3. Maybe mostly mental, but also a little more burly? Had to get into more committing positions hoping the holds would be there but they always were. Hanging belay at the horizontal isn't that bad (all hand sized cams if I remember?), was kind of glad I stopped there rather than trying to run the two together (but 5.6 is also at my limit), although P1 and P2 might have been easily run together . Definitely a great fun climb!

    By Alex Washburne
    Nov 25, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    This can be done in a single pitch with 60m double ropes. Followed by a single rap off the top with said doubles, this is how you get 'er done at the Gunks!

    Best single pitch at the Gunks? In my opinion, it's up there with double crack, doubleissima from ground to GT ledge, Directissima arete linked with high-E, CCK direct or Bonnie's direct from ground to top. As I said before... Get 'er done!!!

    By Ian Dibbs
    Jun 16, 2013

    On a late morning I waited while the group ahead climbed in the full sun. By the time our group made it up, the sun had moved around and the exposed upper climb was now in the shade. Seems like you could pick your climbing time depending if you want the sun on you or not.

    By CWood
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 11, 2013

    Lost some gear here on Tuesday evening (7/9) when I had to bail on lead in a sudden heavy downpour. Would be very pleased to get my gear back if the first party up Wednesday morning is feeling kind enough to return them.

    By jdejace
    Apr 4, 2014

    0.5 BD cams for the hanging belay