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 ADVANCED
Sayers' Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Electric Swimming Pool S 
Mad Scientist Variation, The TR 
Mad Scientist, The S 
Mantle of the Leprechaun, The S 
Pike's Peak S 

Mad Scientist Variation, The 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: mlauwers on Aug 4, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: You can see the bolt line far right for The Mad Sc...

Description 

This is a route that is toproped from The Mad Scientist's anchors. Instead of following the bolts for TMS, go straight at the anchors directly from below them. Start in the gully that is easy climbing. Face the more vertical wall with the right-facing ledge above, and this requires a bit of smearing. The crux is the same as TMS but is left of the bolts and can be more challenging if you stay away from the flake to the left. Then, it's easy sailing to the TR from above the flake.

Location 

Start about 10 feet left of The Mad Scientist's beginning.

Protection 

2 anchors at the top - TR from the same anchors as The Mad Scientist.


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