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This is the obvious crack that separates the face with Double Trouble (5.10a) and Fluff Boy (5.8).
Unprotected, but easy, climbing leads up to the base of the crack proper which affords good jams and protection. The crux comes about two-thirds height, just past the point where Fluff Boy cuts off right, and involves negotiating a short offwidth section (face left). After the crux the angle kicks back and it's a breeze to the top.
The descent is tricky to do without the difficulty exceeding that of the route itself (welcome to Joshua Tree!), but the easiest way is to head right and then tunnel through until you come out above the Right V Crack. Make a leap (rope up if needed) across to the top of Linda's Face, where easy slabs lead the rest of the way to the ground.
A decent route for the beginner leader that features a somewhat involved downclimb - perfect training for the many complex descents found at Joshua Tree. One star out of five.
pro to 3.5"
Feb 19, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Uh - maybe I'm being too picky, but if I were to have lead this as one of my first times on the sharp end, I think I would have sold my rack and took up curling instead. Insecure feeling, off balance, elbow jams and wonky chimney moves towards the top. Just not fun. Maybe this route (as listed on MP.com) differs from the one in Vogel's guide and I climbed something else, but I kinda doubt it. And just to have it said, my wife who followed me up this grunt fest agrees 100% with the Bomb rating.
|By shelby beardslee|
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Its not that bad... I lead this and kept thinking 5.4 my kids should be able to climb 5.4 with that in mind I give this a 5.6 because there are some tricky stems and jams up top. Also you need some big pieces to protect that top section if you feel you need to. There are anchors on top of the adjacent climbs.