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West (Center) Face
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Hunting of the Snark, The 
Mad Hatter 
Ripped Van Winkle 
Zee Wicked Witch 

Mad Hatter 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 7, 2006
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Midway up the second pitch of Mad Hatter.

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Description 

Slabby start, to a harder than it looks section through the small roof. Then angles right to rejoin Zee Wicked Witch and heads to the Jack Daniel's rest. After the rest, clip the first bolt shared by Zee Wicked then bust left through a steep section to the anchors. To the mid anchors is a good 12b.


Location 

Between Rubber Mission and Zee Wicked Witch.


Protection 

Bolts 15 of them, 8 to the halfway anchors. Use draws until the final run to save the leaver biners at the top and midway anchors. Skip the bolts just left and right of the halfway anchors. They aren't needed and will increase rope drag. Use a 70m rope or lower from the mid anchors.



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By GummyBears
Nov 12, 2009

3rd hanger is missing now. Needs to be redrilled as bolt is too small.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 12, 2011

I installed a new bolt to replace the stud with the missing hanger this past weekend.

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Another classic on the tower. This route revolves around the crux sequence at the beginning. About three moves after the slab on smaller half pad pockets. Just make it to the Jack Daniels rest and it's over.

By Pinklebear
Sep 23, 2012

The rope drag when doing this as one pitch is, well, a drag, I know. I had wanted it to go straight up above the belay or come in from the left in the beige streak, but it seemed like a huge hollow plate there and I gave up. Perhaps it's worth a second look, but it's been 20 years now so my memory of the rock quality is vague at best.

By DaveT
From: Albuquerque
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Fell off the top at least once after getting the JD rest! I thought the top crux was about as hard as the bottom one...but maybe I missed something. Sweet move up there anyway.