Mad Arab  5.10a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  L. Dawson, M. Kennedy, 1974 Submitted By:  Dave Holliday on Jul 26, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is the first route left of Twin Cracks. There are several interesting cruxes on this. The route starts by climbing a face to the left of Twin Cracks to a solid flake. Place gear behind the flake and make a hard move to get to a good stance (decking is a possibility if you blow that move). Continue up to the right-leaning slot through the roof that one traverses under while doing Twin Cracks. After the slot, go straight up the steep face via a hand and finger crack. The rock quality degrades slightly at the top, but there's still good gear.

This route is worth doing if others in the area are occupied, but it's not a destination climb.

Location 

First route to the left of Twin Cracks.

Protection 

A standard rack will suffice; maybe doubles in the #0.75 to #2 Camalot sizes. We used a #3.5 and a #4 Camalot. Use the new bolted rappel anchor at the top to descend. A single 60m rope will get you back to the ground.