Macita  5.10 C1

344 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10 C1 [details] FA:  Tim Coats, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley, Karl Karlstrom- early 80s Submitted By:  Larry Coats on Oct 23, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Scott Baxter on the second pitch hand crack of Mac...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Macita was another long-standing virgin summit in the Sedona backcountry that eventually was climbed, but not in the all-free style that was envisioned. Continuous cracks split the south side of the tower, but some frustrating sections prevented free climbing the entire route.

Pitch 1: Start in the notch by climbing cracks between the main wall and a short sub-tower to the south (5.10). This pitch ends on a good ledge at the top of the sub-tower.

Pitch 2: Delicate face climbing on small RP-sized nuts leads off the ledge and into a more secure crack above. Stemming and finger jams lead upward to a blank plaque of rock where the crack arches right. Surmount this section with two moves of aid on fixed angles (C1). From a small ledge at the end of the arching crack the beautiful, splitter hand crack begins. Follow it upward through a few wide-hands pods to reach the belay ledge at the base of the offwidth (5.10). Belay on two bolts.

Pitch 3: Climb the looming offwidth above via aid bolts along the left side (C1). We hoped to free climb this pitch, but even with wide-crack master Karl Karlstrom along we couldn't do it. The crack is a horrible width, overhangs, and leans fiercely to the left until being capped by a wobbly chockstone, and just didn't seem to relent to any application of techniques. I'm still convinced it could be free climbed, but at a standard above that of the rest of the route.

Protection 

Typical Sedona rack, including RPs, lots of hand-sized cams, and a few wider pieces.

Photos of Macita Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: Scott Baxter and Al Doty on the ledge at the end o...	Jim Haisley on the lower section of pitch 2- he ha...	Another shot of Baxter on the magnificent second p...
Tim Coats topping out on the second pitch hand cra...	Karl Karlstom finally giving in and aiding the off...