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Macita/ Fire Hydrant area
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Macita 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley, Karl Karlstrom- early 80s
Page Views: 432
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Oct 23, 2010

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Scott Baxter on the second pitch hand crack of Mac...

Description 

Macita was another long-standing virgin summit in the Sedona backcountry that eventually was climbed, but not in the all-free style that was envisioned. Continuous cracks split the south side of the tower, but some frustrating sections prevented free climbing the entire route.

Pitch 1: Start in the notch by climbing cracks between the main wall and a short sub-tower to the south (5.10). This pitch ends on a good ledge at the top of the sub-tower.

Pitch 2: Delicate face climbing on small RP-sized nuts leads off the ledge and into a more secure crack above. Stemming and finger jams lead upward to a blank plaque of rock where the crack arches right. Surmount this section with two moves of aid on fixed angles (C1). From a small ledge at the end of the arching crack the beautiful, splitter hand crack begins. Follow it upward through a few wide-hands pods to reach the belay ledge at the base of the offwidth (5.10). Belay on two bolts.

Pitch 3: Climb the looming offwidth above via aid bolts along the left side (C1). We hoped to free climb this pitch, but even with wide-crack master Karl Karlstrom along we couldn't do it. The crack is a horrible width, overhangs, and leans fiercely to the left until being capped by a wobbly chockstone, and just didn't seem to relent to any application of techniques. I'm still convinced it could be free climbed, but at a standard above that of the rest of the route.


Protection 

Typical Sedona rack, including RPs, lots of hand-sized cams, and a few wider pieces.



Photos of Macita Slideshow Add Photo
Tim Coats topping out on the second pitch hand crack.
Tim Coats topping out on the second pitch hand cra...
Scott Baxter and Al Doty on the ledge at the end of the first pitch. The poorly protected face climbing leads off the ledge to the obvious, bottomless corner above.
BETA PHOTO: Scott Baxter and Al Doty on the ledge at the end o...
Another shot of Baxter on the magnificent second pitch hand crack of Macita.
Another shot of Baxter on the magnificent second p...
Jim Haisley on the lower section of pitch 2- he has surmounted the thin face start, and is in the better protected thin crack. The blank plaque above is where two aid moves were required to move right.
Jim Haisley on the lower section of pitch 2- he ha...
Karl Karlstom finally giving in and aiding the off width exit crack on Macita.
Karl Karlstom finally giving in and aiding the off...
Comments on Macita Add Comment
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By Zach Harrison
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13

This is a pretty little summit, pitch 2 is worth the hike. As of March 2013 , only 1 pin on the 2nd pitch traverse, and wobbly chockstone is quite terrifying on pitch 3. If your going to the top, have your senses up, in my opinion that block belongs on the ground. There is a chain anchor at the end of the second pitch, but its ~130' to the ground, I don't think a 70M would make it. The summit features a rap station off of a spindly tree, and requires 2 70M to make the ground.