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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Macho 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Julien Dery, 6/7/86
Page Views: 793
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 10, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    During the 1980s, Montreal climber, Julien Dery, brought to Poke-O-Moonshine a modern approach to rock climbing. This cornucopia of a thin finger "crack", balancy face climbing, and small, well-spaced gear make this route an instant Adirondack classic.

    Start the route on the main face of the P.T. Pillar, climbing up through several slopey ledges to gain the first of a series of hard moves protected by two bolts (a third bolt is missing its hanger). Gain the vertical fissure and make some wild moves up the crack, involving some high stepping on "nothing smears", and a few Hail Mary stabs to the credit card edges of the finger crack.

    The route eases off about 10 feet from the top where some larger incuts are reached, and the angle lessens noticably to less than vertical.


    Location 

    On the face of the giant P.T. Pillar are two low bolts. This is Macho.


    Protection 

    2 bolts, a rack of small wires, RPs, and small units from #00 TCU to green Aliens. Several QDs.



    Comments on Macho Add Comment
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    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    May 25, 2010
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    While this route certainly isn't G, I don't think it's R. It protects sufficiently with micros to small nuts and black to red aliens. Gear can be tricky to place which could make for a spicy lead.

    I don't know about any larger incuts at the top. Near the top I traversed right into a finger crack. That's what the topo in Adk Rock shows as well.

    The third bolt had a hanger as of 5/22/10.

    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 9, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

    Agreed^^. There is some long, clean fall potential high on the route, on to good gear. It's definitely pretty heady, but probably not especially dangerous for a 5.11 leader with very good protection placement skills. There's nothing to hit, after all. This all sounds much more reasonable from my keyboard than high on the route, of course!

    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Aug 16, 2010

    11a is a bit of a sand-bag for this sustained test piece. The Mellor guide gave it a straight up 11 rating which is more on realistic, IMHO. Gear is excellent, though it is extremely difficult to place and care must be taken to not hog up the limited finger-tip real-estate. Zen-like concentration and balance is required.