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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This esoteric route is just to the right of 9 Lives. It starts up some easy thin hands (10+) that go to a big ledge at the beginning of a dihedral. Clip the lone bolt and make the difficult dihedral move by pushing against the dihedral with your left hand (it feels like your left shoulder is going to dislocate) and using some very tenuous feet to reach the finger lock where the crack starts. Crank some thin hands until the crack widens and widens and widens, until you are able to get into the chimmney. Chimmney about 50 feet until you get to a massive chock stone that you can climb onto. Don't bother with any gear for the chimmney since its perfect heel/toe. Stem out to the anchors. Two ropes to rap.
Some of everything, but nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Perhaps some extra thin hands gear.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 29, 2014
One 70m rope will get you down from the anchor.
Oct 26, 2015
FA Steve "Roadie" Seats