Macbeth  5.10

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Larry Kledzik, 1982 Submitted By:  Bosier Parsons on Jun 5, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The upper two-thirds of the route.

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Description 

This is a steep and sustained route with fun, interesting, and balancey moves. It feels a little wild the first time you climb it, with some decent whipper potential. The rock quality is actually pretty good, but you're always wondering, especially because it probably doesn't get climbed very often.

I enjoyed this climb and will probably do it again. I'd recommend it for anyone wanting something a little more obscure, but still safe, and away from the crowds.

Location 

This route is on the east face of Keyhole Rock, at the southern-most edge of the formation. There's a route on the South Ridge proper, along with one other route to the right of Macbeth that I'm not sure the name of.

The closest parking is at a pull-out south of the Keyhole formation on the one-way loop road.

Protection 

5 drilled pitons. I also placed a #0.4, #0.5, and #2 Camalot, but these aren't totally necessary. Natural anchor by slinging large blocky bulge at the top. You can also use #0.75, #1, #4 Camalots. The anchor scenario was really not that great. It would be nice to add 2 drilled pitons, or some chains, and perhaps this route would get climbed more often. However, it's a very easy walk-off.

Photos of Macbeth Slideshow

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This is the lower part of the route. It actually ...

Macbeth from the opposite side of the drainage.