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|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
This climb features beautiful double hand cracks that eventually lead up to a roof, which is split in the middle by a crack. In Sandi Epeldi's book the roof is described as "a classic boulder problem in the sky", and I'd have to agree.
This climb is located roughly in the middle of the East Carbody Canyon wall.
This climb is very well protected and will suck up as many nuts and cams as you care to throw into it. There is a two bolt anchor on the comfortable ledge above the roof.
Enjoy the ride. Roof protects well in case you nee...
Reggie enjoying the twin hand cracks low on Macabr...
Reggie getting ready for the business . . .
By K Baumgartner
Oct 12, 2012
Route can be sewn up all the way. Long runners under the roof definitely are helpful. Throw in a few cams at the roof, find the feet, and pull it! Variety of holds, but the footwork is the tricky part. Probably wise to wear a helmet--hit my noggin a couple of times pulling out onto the roof.
By Maurice Chaunders
May 15, 2014
Like the man says...easy lead up 2 cracks to a fun and committing boulder problem, with great pro. 2 purple camalots slide in nicely in the roof crack. You can place gear above the roof, but those cracks are better for hand holds. No pro after the roof, but it's a mellow scamp up the chains.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2014
I agree. Tons of options for larger gear as you stem up the dihedral. Two 0.5 C4 purple Camalots with longer slings were perfect in the underside of the roof crack to sew up the crux. Especially if you happen to take a huge whipper trying to pull the roof, as I did the first time! There are plenty of options for gear above the roof although the climbing is easy. Don't miss this awesome route!