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Locate the large Outsiders block that leans against the cliff and forms an obvious chimney. To the right of that is the left-facing corner system of Main Line. Between those two landmarks, you will see a short left-facing corner and a crack that leads up to a roof that is often adorned with a clump of slings. This is Mac-Reppy.
Climb the corner and crack, go over the roof into another left-facing corner, then belay or go through the roof and corner system immediately above to the top.
The Far End of the Nears.
Aug 6, 2009
Easier than 5.11c as in guidebook. For taller guys 5.10+. The upper portion 5.8 is incredible.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2009
This used to be 5.8 before a flake pulled off in the now-crux corner. It's 5.8 in blue Dick... I did it as an 8 and as an 11. It's well worth aiding the 11 crux and doing it as an 8 A0.
I remember the first time I did the upper part I did a full 360 degree turn around as I stemmed the upper corner.
|By Steven Cherry|
Jun 12, 2010
I can't imagine a less "committing" 5.11 climb. You can place great gear over the lip of the roof from a decent stance, then you can test various ways to attack the crux and keep returning to that stance, and then if you want you can downclimb a few moves and get a total rest before making your final assault. The move itself is hard or easy depending on the kind of climbing you're good at, and an argument can probably be made for any rating from 10a to 11a.
Sep 4, 2012
I don't usually comment on routes, but I thought the other comments were a little sandbagged. I thought this climb was a one move gunks 5.11 and that the one move was really hard, like solid 5.11 hard and being tall doesn't help much. I am 6'1 and have climbed many 5.11's and 12's in the Gunks. Take that for whatever it's worth.
Dec 17, 2012
Agree with above - my 6'4" partner couldn't just stretch for the jug so definitely some moves between even for taller folks. Solid 5.11.