M7 Crack  M6-7

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  M6+ [details] FA:  ? Season:  Anytime Submitted By:  Noah8000 on Nov 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Near the top.

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>> Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in: www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>> Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A direct start is recommended for a full value lead. If you don't like that run out sort of thing, then you can traverse in from the left at a single bolt belay.

For the direct start, start up a faint seam near the first big chockstone on Chockstone Chimney.

Climb up with not great gear, but the climbing is pretty easy...maybe M4? Anyhow, the climbing is easy, but don't fall.

Clip the single bolt belay or if you're starting there, start up. The climbing is overhung trad from here to almost the top...just enough to give you a pump while fishing in gear...good hooks in crack and face, feet to work for, and occasional loose rock. I personally didn't find it too loose, but my partner thought otherwise.

In all seriousness, this is one of the better trad mixed pitches I've done. It climbs really well, and it's never crowded!

Location 

This is on the right-facing wall 15 feet off the road right off the approach for Chockstone Chimney.

Protection 

Doubles up to #2 with singles of #3 and #4, mostly thin stuff, maybe bring a KB for the direct start.

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