|Camp Bird Road
A direct start is recommended for a full value lead. If you don't like that run out sort of thing, then you can traverse in from the left at a single bolt belay.
For the direct start, start up a faint seam near the first big chockstone on Chockstone Chimney.
Climb up with not great gear, but the climbing is pretty easy...maybe M4? Anyhow, the climbing is easy, but don't fall.
Clip the single bolt belay or if you're starting there, start up. The climbing is overhung trad from here to almost the top...just enough to give you a pump while fishing in gear...good hooks in crack and face, feet to work for, and occasional loose rock. I personally didn't find it too loose, but my partner thought otherwise.
In all seriousness, this is one of the better trad mixed pitches I've done. It climbs really well, and it's never crowded!
This is on the right-facing wall 15 feet off the road right off the approach for Chockstone Chimney.
Doubles up to #2 with singles of #3 and #4, mostly thin stuff, maybe bring a KB for the direct start.