|The Whale's Tail
Find the route as for "Spoof" climb up the ramp of spoof for about 30 feet, until a few bolts become [visible] overhead and slightly to the right. The holds are positive and the bolts are good. [Go] up and over the overhang diagonally right to the first bolt. Clip this and move up to a second bolt. From the second bolt climb the short crux to reach the bolt anchor above.
Lower off from the bolt anchor.
The route can be done on fixed gear alone, clipping a few pins on the start. Supplement with gear on Spoof if so desired, to add security. A few cams work fine, but there is little gear anyway.
Shane Zentner approaching the crux of 'M' on the W...
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 7, 2002
Beware of rope eating potential when Tr'ing this climb. Ate me first rope.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This climb has gotten harder since 7/01. And harder again as of Saturday 7/9/04, when I pulled a saucepan-sized crux hold off of it down onto the trail below. At least now what remains seems pretty solid. The climb checks in at maybe 10+/11- for an on-sight at present. Easier if you know the moves, but you might get worked over trying to find them.
|By Shane Zentner|
Jul 12, 2004
Indeed, one will get pumped looking for the holds as I did this past [Saturday]. This f'd up climb ended my fun filled day of getting sandbagged-first on 'Break on Through' then this. Utter humiliation but fun.