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Little Rock Candy Mountain
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M & M's Peanut T 
M & Ms Plain T 
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Three Musketeers, The T 

M & Ms Plain 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Getting ready for the climb.

Description 

A short and awkward climb up the most obvious of the two cracks on this face. The crux comes about ten feet off the ground and involves an balancy move from the flaring crack onto the face.Difficult to protect and not recommended.

Protection 

Protects with small cams and nuts. Bolted anchor.


Photos of M & Ms Plain Slideshow Add Photo
Stephanie sending the crux.
Stephanie sending the crux.
Sooze on the monster.... where is the belayer??
Sooze on the monster.... where is the belayer??

Comments on M & Ms Plain Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
By Mike Hack
Mar 1, 2005

I didn't enjoy this climb. The crack is flared and gear doesn't seem all that nice. I guess the crux came low, but there were all these buckets just right . . . should I feel guilty for using them? Short climb . . . how did it get two stars in Randy's guide?
By Ryan Avery
Mar 9, 2005

I can't figure out this one either. It was ok, but it crack is flared and I wouldn't lead it. I TR'ed it after leading Little Rock Candy Crack just to the right. Easier than it looks, but wouldn't gear up all that good. I would recommend a TR up if you are in the area.
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 25, 2005

I disagree. this crack eats small pro.very fun climb.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 6, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great climb requiring somewhat technical tips jamming and thoughtful gear placements.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As someone who seconded this route, I can't testify for the mental security that the pro may or may not have provided but I do remember it came out ok, and my leader didn't whine about it. As for the climb itself, its an ok crack if one is kickin around in the area.
By EricT
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 11, 2006

Agreed, it protects well with small gear. It's a cute little route.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

Fun route, unfortunate is so short. Eats up pro and positive the whole way. Nice
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

Fun climb! Painful toe jams but nice mental workout through the crux and great jugs reward thereafter.
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Jun 5, 2009

Good pro. Short.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 19, 2013

Readily protectable. Fun and interesting crux, like a more advanced version of the Toejam crux, but now vertical. Solid toejams to assist subpar finger slots to continue to move body up and stretch for the first of the upper wall jugs.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Oct 28, 2013

I've climbed this using only the crack and also by stemming over to M & Ms Peanut. I thought the stemming was a bit easier, but made it more interesting and memorable.