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Little Rock Candy Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bare Leigh Legal S 
Chicken Bones T 
Count Chocula TR 
Flake Hickey T 
Kendall Mint Cake T 
Lips Like Sugar T 
Little Rock Candy Crack T 
M & M's Peanut T 
M & Ms Plain T 
McStumpy Sandwich T 
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 
Nestle's Crunch T 
Squirrel Roast T 
Sugar Daddy T 
Three Musketeers, The T 

M & M's Peanut 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Apr 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: M&M's Peanut is the left slanting crack.

Description 

This the crack that is 3' left of M&Ms Plain and is a thin crack that goes to fists higher up. Coming in from the right is easier than the direct start on this route that is more a face climb than a crack climb.

Protection 

Small wires down low, small cams higher up


Comments on M & M's Peanut Add Comment
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By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Apr 6, 2008

We TR'ed this after M&M's Pain and highly recommend it for that. The pro looked very thin and difficult low, but great after the first 1/3. The crux is, of course, in the bottom third where the very thin difficult to place pro is located.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 7, 2010

This might be the hardest 10a on planet Earth. Be on the alert for creaky flakes on the left face.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 19, 2013

Both M&M's Peanut and M&M's Plain approx 47 ft tall, bec possible to lead both routes with a leader tied in to each end of one 60 m rope and afterward have just enough rope to simultaneously lower both leaders back down to base.
By Murf
Mar 20, 2013

I can rub my tummy while patting my head. I think that is both more interesting and way safer than your "possible double leader lowering 47' 60m belay base beta".
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 20, 2013

not true. rubbing tummy and patting head is definitely not more interesting than the PDLL4760BBB. what's the longest you've rubbed and patted, Murf? 30 sec? a whole min? see, not that interesting. and the latter is quite safe with two belayers. even with one belayer, that too could be made safe by anchoring the one belayer and by having a second person kneel in front of that belayer and perform part of the task on one of the devices dangling from the standing belayer's crotch
By Murf
Mar 21, 2013

So ignoring the fellatio reference, your beta for 4 people (2 belayers, 2 climbers) is to use 1 rope for both routes? I take it all back, that is *so* interesting. You, Sean, are a pioneer in the field of maximizing the person to rope ratio! You should make a list of all routes in the park you can do that way.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 22, 2013

merely said this and the adjacent route are 47 ft tall (both now updated from 35 ft to 50 ft by someone btw), known fairly precisely bec our 60 was a few ft short of midpt after lowering on one, that it'd therefore be possible to lead both routes at same time and be lowered with one 60. didn't urge or demand someone to do it. thanks for the props and recognition, tho wasn't looking for that