||Trad, 10 pitches, 900', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||FFA Bob Jensen/Corey Flynn ( FA Sean Kriletich/Bob J. @12a A0)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,323|
|Submitted By: ||bob jensen on Apr 15, 2012|
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Do first five pitches of Captain Fairview and then ....
Pitch 1: From the belay at base of headwall on Captain Fairview head more or less straight up with gear until a line of bolts is reached. Dice your way past bolts until it opens up to 5.11 terrain. Keep hustling, but not too fast! So thin. Belay at 2 bolts 12c-ish?
Pitch 2: Up from belay clipping a bolt then up to small flake with TCU placement. Continue up past more bolts eventually reaching L facing corner. Climb flake/corner until ledge is reached and set up belay.
Pitch 3: follow "Burning Down the House" last 5.7 pitch. Its a short L facing corner. Ends on big ledge with dwarfed trees.
Smoke up Johnny!!!!!!!!
Start up Captain Fairview and head straight up once headwall is reached.
Walk off like all other routes.
Same rack as for Captain Fairview
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Captain Fairview / Lyme Line Direct
Lyme Line goes a few pitches up to that tree on th...
BETA PHOTO: Route outline. Lyme Line is green. Captain Fairv...