Lycanthropia  5.12c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Martin Berzins Submitted By:  Matt McCormick on Sep 24, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jamie Hamilton moves into the crux on a close atte...

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Description 

This route is yet another one of Martin Berzins' bold and hard additions to the Daks. Put up in 1991, this route contains some of the raddest and most desperate moves I've experienced on any route and amazingly has remained un-repeated to the best of my knowledge. The proximity to Drop Fly or Die is completely overshadowed by the quality of the climbing.

Climb the start of Drop Fly Or Die and at the first roof continue straight up in a tight hands and ringlocks crack. At the horizontal, move left into Drop Fly for 4'. Reach out, blindly place a wire or micro cam in the seam and then move right on small desperate holds into a crazy boulder sequence with no feet until your established in a finger lock and can place your next piece. Continue up the sustained crack above to the enormous guillotine flake and then right to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

Start as for Drop Fly or Die.

Protection 

Many small cams and nuts plus some .75 camalot size pieces.

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Jamie trying to hold onto slopy "jug" mid crux.

Jamie taking the 30' whip onto the blindly placed ...