BETA PHOTO: See the cairn next to my backpack?
Multipitch climbing possibilities in the Frankenjura! I had a great time during my visit to this crag. There are a total of 5 routes here, ranging in difficulty from UIAA 6- to 7- (5.8 to 5.10b). The routes are very vegetarian and typically follow cracks (the 7- is the exception). The book and website both say this crag faces north, but it was bathed in sunlight the entire time we were on it, so I'm kind of wondering about it.
I'm going to teach you a German word: Brennnessel. It means "Stinging-Nettle" and is similar to poison ivy in that it irritates your skin, but it's affects are short-lived. Touching it produces a stinging sensation, and visiting Löwenstein will likely introduce you to this unpleasant plant, especially if you go to the base of the cliff.
You can reach this crag with the train or car.
Train: From Nuremberg, take the train to Velden. From Velden, head back towards Rupprechtstegen (leave the Bahnhof and walk down Bahnhofstraße, which follows the river Pegnitz on your left. This road dead ends into a Market, where you turn left. Follow this around the corner to the right and keep walking until the road turns left and heads out of town.) Continue straight down this road until you reach a bridge where, after crossing the river, you'll see a statue of a stag. Continue walking and when you're in front of somebody's house, you'll be able to see the view shown in the picture. Continue walking in the same direction (right of where the picture was taken) until you reach a pedestrian bridge.
By car: Get on the A9 headed north towards Bayreuth/Dresden. Exit at 47 and take a right at the end of the exit to enter Hormersdorf. Take the first left and head towards Rupprechtstegen (you'll drive through Menschhof, Wallsdorf, and Raitenberg on your way there). Go through Rupprechtstegen and head left towards Velden. You'll drive past lots of tempting walls such as Roter Fels, but keep driving through Lungsdorf. Shortly after leaving Lungsdorf you'll see a parking area on your left and the pedestrian bridge on your right. Park here.
Approach: From the foot bridge which I'm assuming you've already crossed, head straight towards the forest. Hang a left and continue on the main road (smaller, unmaintained roads jut off to the left and right, but stay on the good road). Cross over a concrete bridge over an irrigation ditch (or whatever it is) and continue towards the fence. Once you reach this fence with a high voltage thing in the center, head left downhill and go right when you can. At the end of the fence you'll see some of the crag and a little cairn. This is the beginning of Norisweg. To reach Keilerei, enter the minefield of Brennnessel and cross to the other side of the crag.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 25.2 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Löwenstein
Norisweg 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Europe
: ... : Löwenstein
Really fun adventure climbing! This route would get three stars because the actual rock climbing is really good, but it's so heavily vegetated that I can't give it 3 stars.Since this route reminds me quite a bit of some of the Herb and Jan Conn adventure routes (probably because we lost the piece of paper with the directions on it after the first pitch, but also because it takes some route-finding skills), I'm going to present it in two styles.Adventure: You know how to get here. You've seen the...[more] Browse More Classics in International
BETA PHOTO: Hang a left at the fence and head downhill.
A view from across the street. From here, it's abo...
BETA PHOTO: Hang a right when you can.
BETA PHOTO: Orange is Keilerei. Purple is Loewenzahn. Yellow i...
By Owen Darrow
Jun 29, 2011
Thanks for this great description of how to get to the crag! Makes it soo easy