|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Barbara Knowles, Lisa Verkler, 1990|
|Submitted By:||HTeale on Nov 18, 2010|
|Comments on Luscious Babes||Add Comment|
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Nov 28, 2010
Sketchy first clip if I recall correctly. At my last visit to Jackson....
Trip leader to new climber girl: Hey, do you want to lead this?
New climber girl: Ummm, I've never led before.
Trip leader: That's ok, we will teach you as you go!
Me, to myself: Oh fuck, here we go.
10 minutes later the girl sketches off the first clip and decks. Thought I was going to have to drag some nube with a broken leg out of the falls that day but thankfully she just got banged up. Stay away from the college groups!
Sep 16, 2013
The first clip (unless it's a new bolt since Trad Nanny's climb) is within reach from the ground if you're taller than 5' 10''. The base of the route is on a very slanted section of rock, so stepping up on the higher part lets you easily reach the first bolt, though you'll start/belay from a lower part of the base.
First climb I led in Jackson, heard a lot of people say it was something that many people brought new folk to for their first taste of Jackson. Tall slab with some wavy formations in the rock; all about leaning in and trusting feet.
Also, if you're leading in the afternoon part of the route is shaded, and the top half or so is exposed to sun and it can get fairly hot to the touch. Just above the anchors the cliff meets the treeline above the route so you could climb it and walk out into the forest above the cliffs. There's a somewhat interesting view if you turn around and look back.
By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Sep 27, 2013
|The first clip is sketchy if you do the direct start. I think this is the only 5.8 move on the route. If you have a new leader, or are feeling a bit lazy, starting up and right makes for a 5.6 move and much less sketchy ground to the first clip. If you start up here, I rate the route 5.6 or 5.7. It's definitely a good taste of bullet hard Jackson sandstone and is a classic.|