The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.
The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.
One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website.
Well protected but strenuous.1. 15m, 5b. Climb up and step left onto a small arete; then move left and go through the break in the overhang to gain the crack. Battle up this (large cam useful) to a good stance on the left.2. 30m, 5c. Move back right into the crack and follow it to a good ledge a short way above. The crack's continuation becomes progressively harder until a long stretch gains a hanging corner below the final overhang. A decisive pull (peg) leads into the taxing finishin...[more]Browse More Classics in International