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North Face
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Down on the Pharm S 
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Lunch Bucket Crack T,S 
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Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 

Lunch Bucket Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Heyliger, Hand 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,150
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

Another ledgy route to the right of the multi-pitch routes on the Main Wall. Utilizes good face holds around the rotten crack that runs up the wall, as well as a couple holds in the crack. Bear right through more challenging terrain after the last bolt to the anchors.

This route is a little bit dirty, probably since it doesn't see traffic due to the fact that the bolts disappear as you look up the line from the ground. Also of note, the middle third of the starting ledge seems loose, and there's a hollow flake to the left of said ledge that is easily, and prudently, avoided.


Location 

This route climbs right on top of the line of bolts to the left of Clean-Up on Aisle 9, utilizing the crack primarily for pro.


Protection 

4 bolts.

The FAist recommends gear in this order following the second bolt: #0.75 Camalot – #3 Camalot – green Alien – bolt – medium Stopper – bolt – #2 Camalot.

My first time up I had no gear and found the 2nd to 3rd bolt runout scary but easy, and the rest of the route comfortable. The second time up I placed a #3 Friend in an obviously cleaned out crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and felt comfy, if not a little thrilled, the rest of the way up.

This shares anchors with Clean-Up on Aisle 9.



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By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 21, 2009

Something between the second and third bolt would be nice, as well as a piece (# 2 Cam.?) after the last bolt. Not too bad a route, follows a bit of a natural line.

By Aaron Martinuzzi
Mar 30, 2010

Cleaned a loose handhold from the start of the route today, other than that things are looking pretty solid on these three lines - they've cleaned up quite nicely and offer really enjoyable, steep moderate climbing.

By mattnorville
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is sick. Bolts where no gear is able to be placed, great ethical mixed line.

By Nick Broeder
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It was a great route for sure; looking up and not seeing a full line a bolts didn't stop me from leading it. I had no idea there wasn't a bolt there. I got to the rotten crack and finally realized there was no bailing from there. Had to keep going. It's exciting clipping that bolt after looking at a groundfall for at least a couple feet.

By Ryan Barlow
Nov 17, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

For the most part, this route is quite enjoyable with big holds for feet and hands. One or two fun moves at the start to get going that can test your strength, but then the next 40 feet of climbing are smooth sailing, about a 5.7 I'd say due to the huge grips for your hands and feet the whole way up the crack. At the top, start going right up to the anchor shared with Cleanup on Aisle 9, and the moves start getting trickier making this a 5.8 route. I lead climbed Aisle 9 first and then top roped this route so as to avoid the runout between the bolts.