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The Galaxy
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Lunatic 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Biddick, Jody Wallace
Page Views: 1,643
Submitted By: Josiah Reams on Jul 9, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Jon leading the pumpy arete

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Description 

A very sustained and slightly overhanging route up an arete. Like other routes in this area, the holds look huge from the ground and some of them are. However, once on the climb you will find that many "jugs" are actually medium-sized crimpers.


Location 

On the middle of the three formations that collectively make up "The Galaxy" find the noth-western corner and you will see the bolted arete.


Protection 

7 bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains on top.



Photos of Lunatic Slideshow Add Photo
Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the pho...
Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
Gettin' on Lunatic.
Gettin' on Lunatic.
Comments on Lunatic Add Comment
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By Mike McQuarrie
Jul 10, 2007

Thanks for your comment Brent. Its always nice to see someone thinks a route is as hard as I think it is.

By Tradoholic
Jul 22, 2007

Classic Needles sport climbing. Tricky right below the chains. Well bolted, solid 10b.

By Jamin Hubner
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 11, 2011

Been climbing for a few months...tried this route and failed miserably, but it was first time, and plan to go back tomorrow.


youtu.be/AJKv29wWJ4s

By JohnBiddick
May 21, 2012

No single move on this climb is too hard, but it is move after move for a while. The sustained nature adds much o trying to climb this clean. Advice: Look for rests when you can find them. When you get half way and cross back right of the arete it becomes slightly overhung...no rests here... go fast for two or three bolts to the next rest. Watch for the sting at the end where the decent sized holds disappear. This is a test piece for me every summer.