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 ADVANCED
The Galaxy
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Dancing in the Moonlight S 
Darth Vader T,S 
Icarus S 
Jupiter S 
Lunatic S 
Meteor T 
Minutemen  S 
Neptune S 
Pluto S 
Saturn T 
Zeus T,S 

Lunatic 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Biddick, Jody Wallace
Page Views: 1,768
Submitted By: Josiah Reams on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Last route of the day.

Description 

A very sustained and slightly overhanging route up an arete. Like other routes in this area, the holds look huge from the ground and some of them are. However, once on the climb you will find that many "jugs" are actually medium-sized crimpers.

Location 

On the middle of the three formations that collectively make up "The Galaxy" find the noth-western corner and you will see the bolted arete.

Protection 

7 bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains on top.


Photos of Lunatic Slideshow Add Photo
Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Lunatic is the bolted arete on the left of the pho...
Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
Me on the left side of the arete near the top.
Gettin' on Lunatic.
Gettin' on Lunatic.
Jon leading the pumpy arete
Jon leading the pumpy arete

Comments on Lunatic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike McQuarrie
Jul 10, 2007

Thanks for your comment Brent. Its always nice to see someone thinks a route is as hard as I think it is.
By Tradoholic
Jul 22, 2007

Classic Needles sport climbing. Tricky right below the chains. Well bolted, solid 10b.
By Jamin Hubner
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 11, 2011

Been climbing for a few months...tried this route and failed miserably, but it was first time, and plan to go back tomorrow.


youtu.be/AJKv29wWJ4s
By JohnBiddick
May 21, 2012

No single move on this climb is too hard, but it is move after move for a while. The sustained nature adds much o trying to climb this clean. Advice: Look for rests when you can find them. When you get half way and cross back right of the arete it becomes slightly overhung...no rests here... go fast for two or three bolts to the next rest. Watch for the sting at the end where the decent sized holds disappear. This is a test piece for me every summer.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 21, 2014

IMO this is the best route on Moonlight Ridge. Between a few rest stances, navigate the best path through an assortment of crimps and sidepulls.