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Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
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Lunar Eclipse 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Dan Roth, 1991
Page Views: 1,853
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 31, 2006
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Moving past the last bolt on Lunar Eclipse (5.11a)...

Description 

Stem up and left off a ramp and onto a vertical face with patina plates which is climbed for several bolts to a small roof/overlap at the 4th bolt. Pull over the bulge, clip the next bolt and make some balancy moves getting stood up to clip the sixth bolt. The moves past the last bolt require a high step/reach combo on less than ideal holds and favor those with a good reach.


Location 

Right of Lost Orbit is this great route which was one of the first on the wall.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Lunar Eclipse Slideshow Add Photo
Angelina nearing the crux of Lunar Eclipse.
Angelina nearing the crux of Lunar Eclipse.
Lost Orbit Rock - East Face (detail) with (l-r) Lost Orbit (5.10c), Lunar Eclipse (5.11a), Love At First Bight (5.8+).
BETA PHOTO: Lost Orbit Rock - East Face (detail) with (l-r) Lo...
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By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
May 19, 2008

CONDITION REPORT 

The 2nd to last, or 5th bolt is currently missing. As of 5/18/08 there is only a sleeve in the bolt hole.

Without this bolt the previous bolt is 12-24 inches below your feet by the time you clip the last bolt, depending on your height. It is much more committing but still fairly safe.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 30, 2008

I'm not sure what was going on in May but there were 6 bolts on that route as of 6/29/08. I climbed it with the one of FA party and the route is perfectly safe.

Don't fear people, string that thing up!

edit: Hey Luke, are you sure you're not thinking of Lost Orbit to the left? That route had been realigned and currently sports two empty sleeves.