Lunar Avenue  5.8 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Stuberg, Ruckgaber, Harrison, 1980 Submitted By:  Ben Mottinger on Jul 29, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sun coming onto the Avenue.

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Description 

The route is only mildly spicy and probably doesn't deserve the "s" rating, but nevertheless, take caution, it's not a good beginner 5.8. This is the face climb just left of Pos. 4th St --start up on good holds and place a good cam low and fiddle a small stopper (or offset nut--a straight-tapered RP or similar doesn't sit well) in a small crack above the flared seam. Now make the "spicy" move above this non-ideal nut, but look for a #2 Friend placement (not really in a continuous crack) when you get to a good rest. Move through the crux here (a lot more spicy if you only have the small nut a body length below your feet) and finish on good holds to the top. Some more small cams can be placed after the crux if you want. Walkoff to the north.

Protection 

Friends from #0.5-2, (possible an offset), a No. 3 or 4 stopper, and a small micro cam or TCU.