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 ADVANCED
Central Wall
Select Route:
Alice in Banana Land T,S 
All the Nasties T 
Banana Patch T 
Bitchin Chimney T 
Brain Dead S 
Cowboyography T,S 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 
Hueco Syndrome S 
Lunacy T 
Lunar Abstract S 
Malice In Bucketland T 
Sea of Holes S 
Uriah's Heap T 
Walking on the Moon T 
Window Pain S 

Lunar Abstract 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Todd Skinner, Paul Piana
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009

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Some areas require a guide.

Description 

One of the shorter pitches on the Front Side. Barely overhung, but with fun moves. Lunar Abstract even gets a little sun, unusual for Hueco 5.12's.

The pitch begins with barn door lie-backing up a left facing, left leaning, small flake-corner. Hard to see the gear placements on the way to the first bolt. Three bolts protect face climbing on ivory-like rock. End at a double bolt anchor, about 70 feet up.


Location 

Hike in to the Main Wall as if approaching Window Pain. Start from the same belay zone as Lunacy, the big crack/corner. Lunar Abstract starts on the right wall of Lunacy.

Protection 

Some steel nuts and the smallest cams help getting to the first bolt. Then it becomes a sport pitch. Another option is to do either Lunatic Friends or Lunacy to the anchor at 50 meters, then set up a top rope from the Lunar Abstract anchor, passed on the way down.


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