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 ADVANCED
Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land T,S 
All the Nasties T 
Banana Patch T 
Bitchin Chimney T 
Brain Dead S 
Cowboyography T,S 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 
Hueco Syndrome S 
Lunacy T 
Lunar Abstract S 
Malice In Bucketland T 
Sea of Holes S 
Uriah's Heap T 
Walking on the Moon T 
Window Pain S 

Lunacy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Head?
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009

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Some areas require a guide.

Description 

This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack. It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro. After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers. Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts. Outstanding pitch!

From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)

Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.

Location 

The wide crack right of Window Pain and No Fear of Flying.

Protection 

Bring at least on #6 Camalot or friend to "walk" along as you stem. And a finger to fist sized rack of cams. Enough rope for a 60 meter rappel too, unless your topping out.

It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.


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By Jonathan Petsch
From: Chattanooga, TN
Nov 28, 2009

165200 feet? Dang.
By Khel
Jan 20, 2012

FA Mike Head 1979. No cams of course, just one rattly #11 Hexcentric. Would have been a crippler of a ground fall.