Lunacy  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Mike Head? Season:  morning shade Submitted By:  Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack. It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro. After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers. Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts. Outstanding pitch!

From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)

Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.

Location 

The wide crack right of Window Pain and No Fear of Flying.

Protection 

Bring at least on #6 Camalot or friend to "walk" along as you stem. And a finger to fist sized rack of cams. Enough rope for a 60 meter rappel too, unless your topping out.

It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.