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Luna Park

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Luna Park  


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Location: 33.4962, -107.4154 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,198
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Feb 10, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Moonstruck Buttress in center of photo.

Description 

Luna Park, located eight miles northeast of Monticello, contains fun moderate climbing on moderate quality volcanic rock. Most routes are bolted, but some require gear, all have bolted anchors with chains. The area has not seen many ascents, care is required until the flakes stablize.

Great primitive camping about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Albuquerque. Although located south of Albuquerque, the campground is at 6900' with temps about those in Albuquerque. Luna Park is situated at the top of a pass and becomes a wind tunnel if a weather front is passing, so avoid it during these times. Optimal season is Mid March-May and September-mid November. 

Original route development is unknown. Several single large bolt anchors likely placed in the 1990s along with stoplight red bolts and chains on B.K.M. Care was taken in current route development to ensure all routes were created with a minimum of fixed protection and well camouflaged to protect scenic qualities of this area.

This area is a fragile desert ecosystem. Please practice leave no trace ethics, and honor the area.  Nearest services are in Truth or Consequnces about 45 minutes away. There is spotty cell phone service from top of cliffs or the high hill west of the campground.

Luna Park is a small three campsite USFS campground.  There is no water.

publiclands.org/explore/site.p...

Climbs are located from south to north (right to left). Breaks in text below signify climbs not immediately adjacent to each other.


Full Moon Wall (aka Beyond the Pail)

Eight routes? There are taller climbs on good rock in this location.

Three moderate routes, 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, are on the longer bolted flat face downhill and across the ravine from the outhouse.  Other routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. This location receives early sun and afternoon shade.

The Campsite Area

Todaluna :  5.9, quality 
Lunatique :  5.10, quality
Wolfman :  5.9 (left) or 5.10-(direct)
 
Project :  anchor present, needs climbing, the neat west facing tower. This is a second tier climb which requires a scramble to the start.

Drill Baby Drill :  5.8

Moonpie :  5.7

Second Tier Climbs: Moonpie provides acess to the next two climbs on the large ledge above.  Another approach is a fourth class scramble on the right. The rock quality on the upper tier degenerates throughout much of Luna Park . New route developers should exercise good judgment. There is another scramble to the cliff top off this ledge left of the routes below.

Mooning the Moonies :  5.10-
Irreverend Moon :  5.10+, quality

The next routes are located on or near a buttress at the north end of the campsite area.

Three Dogs Running: 5.8
BKM :  5.6
Love Lizards :  5.9-
Moonstruck :  5.9, quality


The Northwest Passage

the next routes are on good rock in forest, following a gap in the rock, as you head north along cliff band.

One Small Step :  5.9
The Right Step :  5.10-, quality
The Right Stuff : 5.9+, quality

Space Chimp :  5.10, quality

these climbs are just around the corner from Space Chimp.

Mooning About :  5.8 
Astrobunnies :  5.6
Suborbital :  5.7

the next routes are around the corner and north of Suborbital

Green Cheese :  5.6
Man in the Moon :  5.8

walk north again to find these climbs.

Not Rocket Science :  5.7
Rocket Science :  5.10-, quality

Getting There 

Directions from the north: Take I-25 exit 100 (Red RocK), go south on the west frontage road about five miles to FR #139. Turn right (west) and drive on the dirt road for close to ten miles. Turn right (north) on FR#225 and continue for 5 miles to Luna Park. The dirt roads are better traveled with a high clearence vehicle although a four wheel drive is not required.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.0 miles from here

37 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',7],['5.9',8],['5.10',12],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Luna Park:
BKM   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 60'   East Side : Campground
Suborbital   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 50'   East Side : The Northwest Passage
Three Dogs Running   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   East Side : Campground
Love Lizards   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   East Side : Campground
Moonstruck   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 70'   East Side : Campground
Todaluna   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   East Side : Campground
The Right Stuff   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   East Side : The Northwest Passage
Clever Lunar-Themed Route Name, Variation   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   East Side : The Northwest Passage
Rocket Science   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   East Side : The Northwest Passage
Space Chimp   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   East Side : The Northwest Passage
Lunatique   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   East Side : Campground
Browse More Classics in Luna Park

Featured Route For Luna Park
Drill Baby Drill located behind the sign.

Drill Baby Drill 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground
Climb straight up and then upward and right to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Luna Park Slideshow Add Photo
Campsite Area:  looking southeast
BETA PHOTO: Campsite Area: looking southeast
Face containing Lunatique above vehicles.
BETA PHOTO: Face containing Lunatique above vehicles.
Spring break with five climbers at Luna Park.
Spring break with five climbers at Luna Park.
Looking south southeast from the hill across from the campground.
Looking south southeast from the hill across from ...
Overview of Luna Park
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Luna Park
Drill Baby Drill, located behind the sign, second tier climbs ascend from the large ledge above.
BETA PHOTO: Drill Baby Drill, located behind the sign, second ...
Redgarden Wall
BETA PHOTO: Redgarden Wall
The Northwest Passage left of Moonstruck buttress
BETA PHOTO: The Northwest Passage left of Moonstruck buttress
Central Luna Park looking east from cell phone hill.
BETA PHOTO: Central Luna Park looking east from cell phone hil...

Comments on Luna Park Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2013
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Feb 11, 2011
Nice job developing this area. Many thanks to Karl, Mark Thomas, and all those who took the time and effort to put up something new.

W
By sandstonesloper
Feb 14, 2011
Was wondering when this would get posted. I have been frequenting this area for the past 4 years (not for sport climbing). Good job on the development. Have to admit I will be sad to see more traffic in this area. Truly a beautiful area.
By rsilliman
Mar 30, 2011
So, what type of high clearance are we talking here? Mini-van will work...right?
By Nate Myers
Apr 1, 2011
I made it in a 2WD passenger car last weekend without any issues. Its an old car with maybe a little more clearance than average, but not much. Take it slow and careful and the average sedan/mini-van should be fine. I did puncture a tire on the way in though, so check your spare before heading out...
By Ronnie D
Dec 14, 2011
I have to say that Luna Park is really a diverse climbing location. The Luna Park area has been expertly developed with a multitude of great routes and a drive up access. The surrounding area has tons of crags, many climbed by my partner, that you can hike to and get in some great trad ascents. Also, there are tons of bouldering possibility's. Really a great location. Best of all.. the sun shines on the Luna Park climbs all day during the winter.. t-shirt time when pumping! And anchors just about any place you would think of setting a top rope. Still some great trad left right at Luna too. Try out the area, I think you'll like it. I probably will regret these comments when I have to wait in line to hit a route though..

A nice crag on the way in to Luna Park..
A nice crag on the way in to Luna Park..


Vick's peak.  Probably a 1200 ft or better wall.  Just a way's past Luna Park, and then some long hiking to the base.
Vick's peak. Probably a 1200 ft or better wall. Just a way's past Luna Park, and then some long hiking to the base.


Just a few from the road into Luna Park.
Just a few from the road into Luna Park.
By David MacKenzie
From: Albuquerque
Dec 17, 2011
my interest hath been piqued. Is this BLM land?
By Ronnie D
Dec 17, 2011
I believe it's National Forest.
By Burnett
Jan 14, 2012
The climbing history at Luna Park undoubtedly began with the Apache's barefoot first ascents. Luna Park was a hunting camp, game was driven up the canyon. Arrowheads have been found near the bathroom. Known first ascents (the trad routes) began in 1975 with the brothers Mike and Tony Grenko. Bill King Sr. established the first topo of The Park and I helped fill in the blank areas in the mid 90's. The 1/2 inch bolts were installed by Bill and were part of a system he used to toprope many of todays bolted faces. Bolting sport routes at "The Park" wasn't considered important to the few locals, new route developement shifted to Redgarden Wall at the bottom of the canyon. There are a lot of new routes remaining to be put in on Redgarden Wall, up to 170', both sport and mixed. It is primarily good rock with incredible potential and no new routes have appeared on the crag in the last 10 years.
By Burnett
Mar 20, 2012
There are several moderate trad routes on the low angled face several hundred yards upstream from the campground area, on the same side of the canyon. They start from a grove of small trees.

I am looking for volunteers to help bolt a rap route on Redgarden Wall at the bottom of the hill.
By David MacKenzie
From: Albuquerque
May 1, 2012
Burnett, what kind of experience would these volunteers need to have?

(By asking the question, I'm probably showing that I don't have it, myself.)
By Karl Kiser
May 2, 2012
The rap route is in on Redgarden Wall. Go to the route description for X-Man for additional details.
By Tony Grenko
From: Las Cruces, NM
Oct 17, 2013
I'm really glad Karl and others went on to develop this area. We played with it in the early 80s.

ABOUT VICKS PEAK - Bret Murry and I put up a route on vicks in 1981. It takes the obvious left skyline on the large second buttress from the left in the picture on this post. Climb the large chimney off the ground for 200 feet. Exit chimney on the right to a crack system. Climb up intermittent cracks for 300 or so feet - gradually moving back toward the left. A blocky finish of about 200 feet gets you to the top. 5.7 in the middle area. Crux it the finger crack on pitch 3. We named it "Hippies vs. the Green Berets".