|Early Wall - Right End
This is the right most crack on the headwall. To start, ascend to Observatory Ledge via several options. Look for a wide crack (10-) two corners to the right of Dr. Diablo which might be a bit dirty or loose. Follow this pitch to ledges and traverse up and right to a nice 2 bolt belay above a large block stance the furthest right on the Observatory Ledge. You can also start up "Rednecks with Golfclubs" then up to the "Lichening the Serpent" belay anchors (see beta photo). Then traverse right through some blocks to reach the Observatory Ledge belays. Alternatively, climb "Dr. Diablo" and from these anchors head up and right to reach the Observatory Ledge with several belay anchors. Choose the right most belay for Luna Lumina.
From here, step left and ascend a nice tight hand crack to a stance, climb up and then right to a right-trending hand traverse to excellent splitter tips. Good mix of face and tips up great rock. A little dirty off the belay but will clean up well in time.
As of 2010, there are some bolts from Skyline Arete that have impinged on this route and are somewhat clippable from the crack. The first ascent party did not use these bolts to climb this crack free and so you shouldn't either. But the pucker-factor may sway you to the dark side once you are into the tips-madness. These bolts may be adjusted in the near future to keep us all honest.
Luna Lumina (see route 19 on photo)
A tips splitter on upper headwall to the right of Lichening the Serpent and Airbus. Beautiful tips climbing through multiple sustained cruxes with an airy face traverse left where the first crack tapers.
To reach Observatory Ledge, climb Space Shuttle to anchors, then up another 20 feet to Observatory Ledge-Right anchors. From here, the climb steps left and straight up the short hand crack to a ramp, then up another handcrack to a hand-traverse right.
Bring a few zero cams and small(not micro) wires and a few finger to hand sizes up to #3 Camalots. Single 60m rope works well.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 13, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Shuttle seems the best approach, it goes directly to the belay anchors. One could also do the best part of Luna Lumina by starting on the first few bolts of The Skyline Arete, after climbing KSR to approach its belay station.
When the splitter tips crack ends and you have to step left to the next thin crack, it's pretty committing.
I didn't clip The Skyline Arete bolts, but they were kind of tempting and within reach. The crack is near-perfect parallel, so the tiny cams (#0 TCU size) are as as good as they get. But they're still not bolts.
For what little it's worth, my vote is against chopping or moving the Skyline Arete bolts, at least any significant amount. That climb is really cool, even though it uses the Luna Lumina crack for a few moves (at least, I did). I don't think it's a big deal, if you wuss out on Luna Lumina, you know it.