|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, 1984|
|Submitted By:||Orphaned on May 8, 2007|
|Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Lumpy Unmentionables||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By zach cook
From: Boise, ID
Jul 16, 2015
|Attempted this last spring, while in search for Sound of One Hand. 1st is a bit crumbly with some chunks that pulled out, punting me off. We got up and started the 2nd(low angle slab) and quickly retreated with our tails tucked between our legs. Gear in description seemed on par, at least for p1. tread lightly on p1|
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 15, 2015
|Word on the street is that the second pitch recently got a second and third ascent. Well done, Geir and Austin! We may have our differences but this is an incredible accomplishment and props are absolutely due.|
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Some info on the route:
The first pitch is definitely not .11-, more like .11+, possibly .12-, depending on how you do the traverse. The climbing itself is really good and includes technical stemming, laybacking, some burly chimney-esque moves, and a super-delicate and burly traverse/mantle to finish. The rock quality isn't great, but it isn't horrible, either. Geir and I definitely cleaned up most of what needed to come off. The pitch also protects really well, but it does take some work to find the good gear in a few sections. Of note: near the end of the pitch there is a large flake that takes hand-sized pieces to protect the traverse. The flake itself is relatively thin in places, and a long enough fall onto a cam could very well result in its breaking. As such, Geir and I opted to use a hex instead of a cam (which is completely bomber). If you plan on doing the first pitch it would be much appreciated if you, too, would use a hex, or a sufficiently large nut, in lieu of a cam.
The second pitch is certainly dangerous, but perhaps not as dangerous as rumor has had it. The pitch is ~140' with two bolts and two bomber chickenheads, so there's an average of 35' between placements. Falling in certain spots would definitely not be good, but whether or not it would result in hitting the buttress below the route is not certain. Either way, the pitch is not to be taken lightly. The climbing for the first half or so is on low-angle slab, with multiple sections of.10. After the second bolt things ease up a bit and eventually lead to a highway of chickenheads and easier climbing with only a few sections of .8/.9 to the anchors. The anchor is shared with Knead me and has one fixed pin and a flake that takes 1"-2" pieces.
Doubles to 2" and a good assortment of nuts will be more than sufficient for the route. There is an optional 4" placement on the first pitch, which is otherwise protected with a few micro cams.