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Lullabies For Little Criminals 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Aaron James Parlier
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Aaron James Parlier on Aug 4, 2011

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Aaron James Parlier on the FA of "Lullabies For Li...

Description 

So crimpy!

Walk to the right, past the front face of Hero. Round the boulder to where you see the two boulders (Hero & Sidekick) meet. Look for the thin crack on Hero called the "Cumulonimbus Crack". To the left of the crack, look for the low thin crimps that are side-by-side. This is the start.

Match the two thin crimps and find the low left foot jib/flake under the steeper low portion of the face.

Pick up off of the crimps and make a tough right hand catch onto the close, higher, tiny, sharp crimp above. From there move left to a credit card edged crimp intermediate and the progress up and left again to the larger flake (looks large but the useable part is terribly thin). Move from the flake, up and right to gain the higher small rail. Continue to a better hold which gives-way to the great top-out.

Note: You will find on this line, as with most of the other holds on this boulder, that in the 90's someone reinforced the little holds with a small stripe of cement glue. This is the only area of GHSP where you will ever find this and I believe it was from a small handful of climbers in the early 90's who only climbed on these three boulders (hence the AVP designation as a separate area from the neighboring "Boneyard").

The crimps aren't glued on, but I suppose whoever did it did this so the hold wouldn't break off in the future. The mystery cementer added a small, usually hard to see, stripe of cement in the back of the holds... I doubt the crimps were ever actually used since most of the edges of the crimps and flakes were extremely thin and sharp at first, and they chipped down when I initially attempted to use them (and I weigh in at a whopping 150lbs). I don't feel the glue takes away from the problems at all since nothing can be done about it now, and you really cant see it unless you wash a hold and inspect it... I feel like its a part of the history of the area now... And the lines are amazing. Enjoy!

Location 

Hero Boulder

Protection 

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