Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Kurt Luhr |
| Submitted By: | Ben Mottinger on Mar 29, 2001 |
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Description This is the left-facing dihedral in Area 1 of the Side Areas. Decent climbing, but not the best rock. Start on a sport route and face climb past three bolts, only clipping the last two with 24" runners to give some pro for the first 20 feet. Then move into the dihedral and make some awkward moves to get going. Watch out for some loose blocks here. The rest of the climb is nice with good liebacking to the anchors. The technical crux is using some crimps past the bolts, but the awkward move in the dihedral is kinda hard, too. Per Troy from Tooele: This route is located about 12 feet left of "Circle Square and the Triangle." I would admit that this route is much easier than it looks. Clip the starting bolts, long runner the last one before the crack, then enjoy the giant left arch. Clip a bomber chain anchor and lower. One rope will get you to the deck. Pretty clean, with a cool ledge to sit and have a smoke on about 50' up. Enjoy!!! Eds. This was entered twice into the database. Now we've combined the 2 entries under the first entry.
Protection Standard rack up to #4 Friend. Several shoulder slings for the first two bolts. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor. Per Troy from Tooele: Quickdraws, one long runner for the last bolt before you enter the crack system. Cams to 3.5", big cam is completely optional. Runners for the cams would prove useful.
Joseffa Meir follows, about 1/2 way up the long an...
| Joseffa Meir follows Luhr's Route, up under the bi...
| Mark raps down from the right dihedral. Climbing ...
| Jim on lead is just about done with the crux moves...
| Ella onsighting Luhr's Route.
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| Comments on Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral |
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By Frank Stock Jun 5, 2001
| Very fun route. When it looks like it might get hard there is always a huge jug. The traverse under the arch to the anchors has huge feet. Pretty generously graded -no where near that difficult. |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 12, 2002
| This has also been called "Luhr's Route?" 5.8 start? 5.7 rest? Fun. Looks harder than it turns out to be. Enjoy. |
By Mikelsons From: Boulder, CO Oct 28, 2009 rating: 5.8
| The crux is climbing past the two bolts at the start. It's balancy slab climbing, but not too hard. The dihedral is a blast. There's lot's of variety and several options for climbing. I cleaned it and climbed it with stemming and jamming while facing left. My friend Wayne on his third day of climbing ever top-roped it. He faced right, into the crack, and jammed it. |
By boydpainting From: Estes Park CO Nov 20, 2009
| No more difficult than 5.8 at the start(first two bolts). The rest climbs at a nice 5.6+ or .7-. IMO, If the arch is keeping you from climbing this, well, shit I say climb it! If you can slab a little 5.8, you should have the crack dialed. |
By Alexander Nees From: Grand Junction, CO Sep 23, 2012 rating: 5.9
| Good climbing, with excellent rock. Don't know if it's cleaned up since the original description was written, but this is a really nice climb now. |
By Brian Wright From: Glenwood Springs, Co Oct 8, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| I would also voice that this is much easier than it looks. The roof is easy, you can undercling with decent feet. Perfect to thin hands for me through what I thought was the crux: a bulge about 20 feet or so after you gain the dihedral. The face climbing at the bottom is easy. Though hollow rock at bolt 1 is less than inspiring. Better and more varied IMO than Dihedral 1 to the left. |
By BJ Sbarra From: Carbondale, CO Apr 22, 2013 rating: 5.8
| Though the description says to only clip the first two bolts, I found it nice to clip all three, putting a double length sling on the 3rd. This will keep you protected pulling the moves into the corner, otherwise you are soloing at that point if you only clip the first two. |
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