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 ADVANCED
Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lude 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, 1977
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011

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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Named after the source of a nightís diversion (it was the 70s), this route climbs an attractive hanging corner past a small roof on the left side of Rappel Rock. This may be RRís first 5.11 FA lead, which naturally we rated 5.10 at the time, even though none of us could follow it. The crux is brief and well-protected by gear and a pin (although, uh, if the pin is still there, it is now 34 years old!). I donít think RR would mind if the pin was replaced with a nice fat bolt.


    Location 

    When walking along the base of Rappel from the west, skirt past an obvious right-slanting 3rd class ramp until the wall gets steeper. Look for a hanging dihedral, presumably with a fixed pin, before reaching Baradur.


    Protection 

    Standard trad rack. Gear belay.



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