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Devil's Race Track
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Bounty Hunter S 
Dancing With the Devil S 
Day at the Races S 
Flesh Gordon S 
Gargoyle S 
Great Balls of Fire T 
Green Eggs & Ham T 
Little Ol' Lady  T 
Little Wing S 
Look Ma, No Head! S 
Lucy in the Sky S 
Malice in Wonderland S 
Moon Doggies T 
Natural Lite T,TR 
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Russian One Step T 
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Wet Willie S 
Zombie Stomp S 

Lucy in the Sky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,839
Submitted By: Baikenbitz on May 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Lucy in the Sky

Description 

150' feet of fun climbing. First pitch is more enjoyable than the second. If you top out, rappel down to the ledge, then pull the rope, and rap of the ledge. Or trail a second rope, and do it all in one rap.

Location 

Located directly after the trail splits to go to either North Face or the Alley. Go to the North Face, and walk around the nose, and you will see a string of draws going up a darker section of rock. This is Lucy in the Sky. It is the tallest section of the rock as well.

Protection 

10-12 draws... 15 feet between the bolts is the norm. First pitch ends on a ledge with open cold shuts


Photos of Lucy in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Dave leading Lucy in the Sky.
Dave leading Lucy in the Sky.
Anchors for Green Eggs & Ham, Lucy in the Sky, Sonic Temple, and Russian One Step.
Anchors for Green Eggs & Ham, Lucy in the Sky, Son...
Tim rapping off Lucy in the Sky.
Tim rapping off Lucy in the Sky.
Belay ledge for Lucy in the Sky.
Belay ledge for Lucy in the Sky.
Beehive at 4th bolt.  Dormant in the winter months, not so in the warmer months!
Beehive at 4th bolt. Dormant in the winter months...

Comments on Lucy in the Sky Add Comment
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By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 2, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Bees are swarming again! My wife and I climbed Russian One Step, then rapped down Lucy to first belay ledge, but then saw 50+ bees swarming at the 4th bolt. We were forced to climb Lucy's 2nd pitch and rap off the other side using Zombie Stomp's anchors midway since we only had a 60m. You must extend Lucy's anchors if you rap off other side to avoid bad rope drag.
By Reece Henson
From: Knoxville, TN
Jul 12, 2010

you don't need 10-12 draws unless you do it all in one pitch. so if you only have 8 draws you'll be fine if you pitch both out
By Garrett Gregg
May 1, 2013

The bees are still there at the 4th bolt. You can go around to the left.
By Keegan McCormick
From: Hixson, TN
Jul 22, 2013

Attempted going to the far left of the bees at the 4th bolt, partner was swarmed and had to bail.
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 4, 2013

Define swarmed? I'm wanting to give Lucy in the Sky a shot soon, but it sounds like it may not be worth the risk! Any viable solutions to this bee issue at the 4th bolt?
By adoit90
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 13, 2014

Does anywone know if the bees are still a problem here? I'm interested, but not if there's a chance of getting swarmed.
By adoit90
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 3, 2014

Hey Khowe, did you get a chance to check on the bees? Also, do you know what kind of anchors there are at the top of the second pitch? I saw there's cold shuts at the top of the first, but I haven't found anything about the 2nd anchors anywhere.
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 5, 2014

Adoit, I'm not sure on the bees or the bolts. Dixie Cragger's says "chains" at the top of the route though. DRT is well-bolted for the most part, even on the trad lines.
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 11, 2014

No bee activity (March 11, 2014).