Lucy in the Sky
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This line is substantially better than it sounds in the Sharp End Guide. With good rock and fun, entry-level arete moves, this route would make a good warm-up. Begin below the rounded prow left of 14 Carats. Bear-hug up the rounded prow, moving slightly left around the 4th bolt to a good ledge-rest. Pass the rooflet on the right, and follow easier terrain to the anchor.
Right of Sunrise Arete
, left of 14 Carats. Climbs the prow where the trail from the road first meets the cliff.
Bolts to 2 BA. The anchor is a bit weird, with one bolt on each face of the dihedral. It seems this would but some undesirable, axial stress on the anchor bolts when lowering or rappelling.
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty good route that is kind of harder than it looks. Kind of barn door-y. Anchor is kind of odd.