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Lucy in the Sky with Potash 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,907
Submitted By: Wes Allen on Mar 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (155)
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Setting pro for the crux.
Photographer: Rich Serva...

Description 

Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.


Protection 

Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.



Photos of Lucy in the Sky with Potash Slideshow Add Photo
Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Potash (10a)'. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Po...
The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpole.
The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpole.
Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where the crack thins out to small fingers.  Some climbers use the arete for help, others use small face holds on the left for help.
Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where...
Above the thin section. <br />Photographer: Rich Servantes
Above the thin section.
Photographer: Rich Servant...
Good View of the Crack
Good View of the Crack
Comments on Lucy in the Sky with Potash Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 22, 2013
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2002

I thought there were two equally difficult cruxes on the upper section, both where the crack thins out. The moves are rather complex and very aesthetic. I was kinda intimidated leading this but since then I've watched people fall all over it, and they really weren't falling nearly as far as I had envisioned. Go for it!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 5, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.

Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.

5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right.

By Brejcha, Matthew
Mar 27, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Gear Alert

This is a great route with a "sporty" crux. I greased 2 or 3 times trying to pull that move. The thin section just below the crux gobbles up a purple splitter cam. After that move the route is a cruiser, but watch the flake at the top.Also,you may want to take some home depot biners or some rap rings for the anchor, the route sees a crap-ton of traffic and the current rings are getting to show it.

By Lynn S
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

00 C3 will be at your waist for the bouldery crux move. Reached up left for the edge, the higher you reach the less greasy the hold. Smear with the left and step up with the right in the corner, slam a jam in the next opening. Fun climbing.

By Brian Barenberg
Mar 30, 2009

Fun route. I was there last week and a local told me they recently took the large flake at the top down with a crowbar, so don't worry about trying to be careful--it's no longer there.

By Skyler Penrod
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, great lead with good pro. There is only one small .10a sequence on the route. You have a good piece(#1 Camelot)underneath you so don't sweat it!

By Price
From: SLC, UT
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Brian, and everyone, the death flake at the top is still there, and even if it wasn't, continue to be careful. There's a lot of loose rock near the top. Hard crux move in my opinion.

By timothyrgriffen
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Super fun route. Not sure if I could agree with the consensus of a 5.10a grade. The crux is pretty hard 5.10b-5.10c. The rest of the route is crusier though.

By Joseph Lascurain
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 1, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The crux might not be so bad if the feet weren't polished in this section. Otherwise if feels pretty hard for 10a. I felt that there was no move even close to as hard as this crux on Flakes of Wrath which seemed much more than a slight grade easier IMO. Anyways fun route.

By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Really delicate crux. I thought this line was awesome. I doubled my pro at the crux and hoped the rubber would stick!