Setting pro for the crux. Photographer: Rich Serva...
Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.
Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.
I thought there were two equally difficult cruxes on the upper section, both where the crack thins out. The moves are rather complex and very aesthetic. I was kinda intimidated leading this but since then I've watched people fall all over it, and they really weren't falling nearly as far as I had envisioned. Go for it!
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 5, 2003 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.
Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.
5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Mar 15, 2004 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right.
This is a great route with a "sporty" crux. I greased 2 or 3 times trying to pull that move. The thin section just below the crux gobbles up a purple splitter cam. After that move the route is a cruiser, but watch the flake at the top.Also,you may want to take some home depot biners or some rap rings for the anchor, the route sees a crap-ton of traffic and the current rings are getting to show it.
By Lynn S Mar 13, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
00 C3 will be at your waist for the bouldery crux move. Reached up left for the edge, the higher you reach the less greasy the hold. Smear with the left and step up with the right in the corner, slam a jam in the next opening. Fun climbing.
Super fun route. Not sure if I could agree with the consensus of a 5.10a grade. The crux is pretty hard 5.10b-5.10c. The rest of the route is crusier though.
By Joseph Lascurain From: Salt Lake City, Utah Nov 1, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b
The crux might not be so bad if the feet weren't polished in this section. Otherwise if feels pretty hard for 10a. I felt that there was no move even close to as hard as this crux on Flakes of Wrath which seemed much more than a slight grade easier IMO. Anyways fun route.
By Tyson W. From: South Lake Tahoe, CA Nov 22, 2013 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
Really delicate crux. I thought this line was awesome. I doubled my pro at the crux and hoped the rubber would stick!