|876 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, Ice, 1 pitch, 120 feet|
|Consensus: ||WI5 [details]|
|FA: ||Rich Purnell|
|Submitted By: ||richP on Feb 15, 2007|
RP going for the ice on the Fang off of Lucky. Se...
This route is probably one of the hardest mixed lines in Vail and is best done from ground up which creates a super long rock and ice excursion. Start and climb the route "Frigid Inseminator" (the three bolt rig behind the Fang). Lucky then follows the bolts out the first small roof above FI's anchors to the imposing roof that eventually leads to the Fang (yes, there are holds on it). This route is really fun with interesting movement on small holds. Early in the season the first couple bolts are super hard, but later in the season, the ice to the left of FI (7th Tentacle) is bigger therefore creating an easier start; however, the main roof never seems to get smaller. You should do this ground up for a hard grade and ease of belay. One 150-foot rope will reach from the ground to the Fang's anchors. Rigging and cleaning this route is hard and takes forever to figure out. GOOD LUCK and call me if you get it.
Vail behind the Fang.
About 5 ice screws, around 16 quickdraws (some doubled up) one 50meter rope will top you out.