Start up Head but break right after the first bolt and tackle the burly boulder problem on pinches finishing with either a cross to or a sword fighter gaston stab to a couple of jug slots, either way accuracy is of the utmost importance to success. After the jugs the holds start out small again but progressively get bigger till the jug horizontal and the final bolt. A few more moves up over the roof then jump off as there is no anchor.
Shares the first bolt with Head then breaks right. The first route left of Body Wax following the steep blunt arete feature.
5 bolts, no anchor.