Lucky Strikes Again
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Peter on the lower part of the route.
Is this the steepest 5.9 sport route in Boulder Canyon? Quite possibly so, and it is certainly one of the best new moderate additions in quite some time.
Approach by walking under the lower Coney Island climbs past Dampened Enthusiasm, then move up a bit and continue right then down a grassy slope until you see bolts. Upper Coney is above you - do not go there.
Start as for Pri-Moe. Climb scaly but okay rock past 4 bolts, and step right onto a big shelf. Gaze at the steep and intimidating headwall, then cast off on subtle but amazing jugs and swarm to the top. Many people will involuntarily whoop somewhere in this section. Great position and outlandish climbing make this an instant classic!
The route faces almost due east and gets great sun in the morning.
7-8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Pri-Moe and Lucky Strikes Again, Coney Island.
Peter on the steep headwall.
Kevin on the crux section.
Kevin, relaxed on the jugs.
|Comments on Lucky Strikes Again
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2002
A steep, exciting and fun route. The crux headwall is height-dependent and may be harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. I'm 6'2", and was just able to reach a key handhold to pull myself onto the ledge atop the headwall.
A note on the approach: this climb and Pri-Moe are on a crag about 100 yards right of Lower Coney Island.From Lower Coney Island, head right and follow a path that traverses a grassy hillside to the crag, then head around the right side and up the hill a bit until you see the bolts.
Steep, exciting and fun.
Crux is height-dependent; probably harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers.
|By matthew sawyer|
May 15, 2003
What a fun route! This website rocks! I would put in my own 2 cents regarding finding the climb, take the right fork, go past Lower Coney Island. Upper Coney Island is now above you. One could reasonably argue that this climb is on Upper Coney Island, just split from the main face by an upward traversing gully reminiscent of the ramp on Bell Buttress up to Cosmosis. To find No Name, basically just catch up with the Upper Coney trail after passing Lower, keep going right, staying close to the wall, the wall and trail will pass a low point and then turn left and head uphill to the north, finding the climbs shortly. We did the "down grassy" slope and ended up in Road Bomb City poking around the top of a roadcut cliff. To be avoided.
|By Chris Archer|
Jun 23, 2004
This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout.
|By Andy Moore|
Jul 2, 2004
The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part.
|By richard magill|
Aug 5, 2004
Worth doing but not a classic. The bottom half was a little chossy. The moves on the top half are great, although quite easy.
|By kyle lefkoff|
Jun 13, 2005
Climbed this excellent new route on the east fin of Coney Island on 6/11 with Snipes, McClenehan, and Alkaitas. Consensus was BC 9- or Gunks 5.6. Good position and a quality rock, well equipped.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2005
The route seemed much easier than the last time I did it; Boulder Canyon 9-.
I agree with Kyle; this would be a 6 or 7 in the Gunks: much easier than Thin Slabs Direct (7+) or Modern Times (8+).
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2007
Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!!
It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss but climbs as well as the top.
As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime.
|By Nick Fury|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 26, 2009
Probably the best overhanging 5.9 in Boulder Canyon. Fun and pretty clean now, I didn't kick off any choss on the lower section. Finding it's a little bit of a chore though. Just keep going around to the right side of the area.
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Jul 22, 2009
Wow...much harder (for me) than Runaway!
Kind of a weird bouldery start w/ most of the holds seeming to go the wrong way. Lower section was OK, but the upper section (from the big ledge) was really quite cool.
The bolts are quite well placed in my opinion...thankfully- as I tested the one at the top of the headwall. Didn't manage to get it clean (this time) and couldn't figure out the moves to get off the last ledge...had to cheat here as I was out of juice. We'll be back so I can work through this one and get it clean.
A word of advice- I think that longer draws (like 17cm-20+cm) on the 4th and 5th (& possibly 6th) bolts would help reduce some of the rope drag I experienced. (as opposed to the 12cm draws I used throughout)
Mar 26, 2011
I didn't like the location of the 4th. bolt. A fall from here prior to clipping the bolt would give you a pine tree enema. The bottom section is way grungy, but climbing over the top 4 bolts was very good.