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Lucky Lady 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett and Alan Roberts, 1983
Page Views: 694
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Brandt Allen on "Lucky Lady".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Easiest to approach as for Loose Lady via the marked trail leading from the Real Hidden Valley parking area. Tunnel up and scramble past the base of Houser Buttress to reach this smaller, similar style rock which lies about 75' right of Loose Lady.

Start by climbing up a gully along the left margin of the wall (pro possible here) for about 25' and traverse right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Make crux moves past the 1st bolt and continue up past one more bolt to the anchors; rap the route with a single rope.

This is a fun route worth doing when in the area or waiting for the ever popular Loose Lady.


Protection 

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"), optional pro to 3"



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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Small nuts, tricams, hexes, cams............ all would work fine in the crack at the start of the climb. Long sling would help in avoiding "Rope drag". Nice stance gives plenty of safty and time to set pro accordingly. One good piece is the ticket so don't go loading up your harness or pro sling looking like you are ready to do a big wall. Unless you want the extra weight and a "snapshot of a fool" photo op. Both bolts are good as are the two rap anchors. The view in the late afternoon light is super nice.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 11, 2004

My partner did a direct start at the bottom of the gully. Pretty scary; I was glad to second that one. It is pretty spicy at stiff at 5.8 that way.