Lucky Groove 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Ryan Larid |
| Submitted By: | kevin fox on Sep 2, 2008 |
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Description The route's crux is at the start.
Location As per Zach's book, this goes from right to left and follows a water streak. There is an overhang to the left of the route.
Protection Bolts. The anchors at the top are cold shuts.
By rlaird
Sep 16, 2008
| The correct name of this route is "Lucky Groove", as it follows a water groove trending left. The route was retrobolted and is lead on all QDs. If TR'ing, clip the second bolt as a directional.
Ryan Laird |
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.9
| A fun, consistent, and elegant line. The best quality climb on Beehive.
The crux move is a power move right off the ground on good holds, but it doesn't have a boring easy section like "Back to Bucket Country" or "Alien Dave" have.
"The Voo" guide shows this climb ending at the same anchors as "Aspen Fantasy Land" and "Intoxica," and it can be climbed that way.
However there are two additional bolts leading straight above the groove which go straight up to another set of anchors. A better choice.
The groove is formed by a pegmatitic intrusive dike of pink orthoclase and quartz, probably the same composition granite as the main Vedauwoo area rock. Beehive is a gray granite with plagioclase instead of orthoclase...and why it weathers differently. For those amateur geologist climber types who wonder why this rock is so different from the rest of Vedauwoo.... |
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