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Beehive Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Dave 
Back to Bucket Country 
Chivalry is Dead 
Five Days One Summer 
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach 
Gypsie Fire 
Intoxica 
Lucky Groove 
Madiera Beach 
Middle Staircase 
Monkey and the Engineer 
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) 
Noxious Invasives 
Phipps' Gardens 
Priests are Perverts, Too 
Rip Chords 
Safari Winch Ride 
Unnamed Roof Problem 
Walk on the Wild Side 
Walking the Board 
Unsorted Routes:

Lucky Groove 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ryan Larid
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: kevin fox on Sep 2, 2008
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Description 

The route's crux is at the start.


Location 

As per Zach's book, this goes from right to left and follows a water streak. There is an overhang to the left of the route.


Protection 

Bolts. The anchors at the top are cold shuts.



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By ryan laird
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2008

The correct name of this route is "Lucky Groove", as it follows a water groove trending left. The route was retrobolted and is lead on all QDs. If TR'ing, clip the second bolt as a directional.

Ryan Laird

By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A fun, consistent, and elegant line. The best quality climb on Beehive.

The crux move is a power move right off the ground on good holds, but it doesn't have a boring easy section like "Back to Bucket Country" or "Alien Dave" have.

"The Voo" guide shows this climb ending at the same anchors as "Aspen Fantasy Land" and "Intoxica," and it can be climbed that way.

However there are two additional bolts leading straight above the groove which go straight up to another set of anchors. A better choice.

The groove is formed by a pegmatitic intrusive dike of pink orthoclase and quartz, probably the same composition granite as the main Vedauwoo area rock. Beehive is a gray granite with plagioclase instead of orthoclase...and why it weathers differently. For those amateur geologist climber types who wonder why this rock is so different from the rest of Vedauwoo....