Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Beehive Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Dave S 
Back to Bucket Country S 
Chivalry is Dead S 
Five Days One Summer S 
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 
Gypsie Fire S 
Intoxica S 
Lucky Groove S 
Madiera Beach S 
Middle Staircase S 
Monkey and the Engineer S 
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 
Noxious Invasives S 
Phipps' Gardens S 
Priests are Perverts, Too S 
Rip Chords S 
Safari Winch Ride S 
Unnamed Roof Problem S 
Walk on the Wild Side S 
Walking the Board S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lucky Groove 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ryan Larid
Page Views: 1,503
Submitted By: kevin fox on Sep 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route's crux is at the start.

Location 

As per Zach's book, this goes from right to left and follows a water streak. There is an overhang to the left of the route.

Protection 

Bolts. The anchors at the top are cold shuts.


Comments on Lucky Groove Add Comment
Show which comments
By ryan laird
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2008

The correct name of this route is "Lucky Groove", as it follows a water groove trending left. The route was retrobolted and is lead on all QDs. If TR'ing, clip the second bolt as a directional.

Ryan Laird
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A fun, consistent, and elegant line. The best quality climb on Beehive.

The crux move is a power move right off the ground on good holds, but it doesn't have a boring easy section like "Back to Bucket Country" or "Alien Dave" have.

"The Voo" guide shows this climb ending at the same anchors as "Aspen Fantasy Land" and "Intoxica," and it can be climbed that way.

However there are two additional bolts leading straight above the groove which go straight up to another set of anchors. A better choice.

The groove is formed by a pegmatitic intrusive dike of pink orthoclase and quartz, probably the same composition granite as the main Vedauwoo area rock. Beehive is a gray granite with plagioclase instead of orthoclase...and why it weathers differently. For those amateur geologist climber types who wonder why this rock is so different from the rest of Vedauwoo....