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Hangin' Judge, The 
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Mad Season 
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Papper, The 
Public Hanging 

Lucky Cuss 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brad Singer & Travis McElvany, August 1992, FL: Chris Miller, July 1997
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: C Miller on May 12, 2006
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Tom Donnelly about to enter the crux of Lucky Cuss...

Description 

Lieback, jam, stem and undercling your way in a left-trending line past several bolts to a horizontal crack and then head up and right on devious moves to a safe but thrilling finish. Orignally done without the first bolt which made it a little more sporty.


Location 

The steep and somewhat improbable face between Lady Luck and The Papper on the far left side of the wall.


Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors



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Helen Shull following Lucky Cuss.
Helen Shull following Lucky Cuss.
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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 14, 2007

Like the other routes on this left end of the crag, the rock is not so good and the lines are either squeezed or forced. Moving even a couple feet out of the bolt line will change the route dramatically. Staying in the bolt line gave a very unnatural feel to this route..... I suggest following the natural holds and just travel a bit on the wall.

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I agree - the holds and the bolts don't seem to line up.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The bolts and the climb definately don't seem to jive but I thought the climbing was real fun - lots of interesting moves. This one's worth a go.