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Willow Springs South
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Lucky Charms 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: rockratrei on Jun 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The crack 5 ft to the left of Senior Moment.
Climb the varnished crack to the rotten over hang, then traverse left 15 ft on white rock up through the slot in the bulge.


Location 

To desend, traverse 20 ft across a large ledge to a 2 bolt anchcor.


Protection 

SR



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By Ron Graham
Oct 21, 2011

This route is tons of fun, but it feels more like it should be rated 5.5 or 5.6 than 5.7. It has tons of good holds and protects well from bottom to top. The hardest moves are the final ones as you climb up through the bulge to the finish ledge. The bulge protects well with a #4 cam, and you can also sling a jug handle below the bulge. There's no need to traverse very far to rappel the route; an anchor has been tied to a bush just East of where you top out. The route can be rappeled with a single 60 meter rope.

By William Fry
From: Kalispell, MT
Mar 18, 2013

When you say a #4 cam at the bulge, How big is a #4 cam? Thank you.