Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Willow Springs South
Select Route:
Abdominizer, The 
Above and Beyond 
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain 
Fruit Loops 
Fun And Games 
Hawk Eye 
Little Black Book 
Lucky Charms 
N'Plus Ultra 
Nadia's Nine 
New Hips Corner 
Pillar Talk 
Senior Moment 
Unknown Arete 

Lucky Charms 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: rockratrei on Jun 28, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


The crack 5 ft to the left of Senior Moment.
Climb the varnished crack to the rotten over hang, then traverse left 15 ft on white rock up through the slot in the bulge.


To desend, traverse 20 ft across a large ledge to a 2 bolt anchcor.



Comments on Lucky Charms Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Graham
Oct 21, 2011

This route is tons of fun, but it feels more like it should be rated 5.5 or 5.6 than 5.7. It has tons of good holds and protects well from bottom to top. The hardest moves are the final ones as you climb up through the bulge to the finish ledge. The bulge protects well with a #4 cam, and you can also sling a jug handle below the bulge. There's no need to traverse very far to rappel the route; an anchor has been tied to a bush just East of where you top out. The route can be rappeled with a single 60 meter rope.

By William Fry
Mar 18, 2013

When you say a #4 cam at the bulge, How big is a #4 cam? Thank you.