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Willow Springs South
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Abdominizer, The T 
Above and Beyond T 
Above, Above and Beyond T 
Beyond and Above T 
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 
Fruit Loops T 
Fun And Games T 
Geezer's Face T 
Gimp's Arete T 
Hawk Eye T 
Little Black Book T 
Lucky Charms T 
N'Plus Ultra T 
Nadia's Nine T 
New Hips Corner T 
Pillar Talk T 
Senior Moment T 
Sleeper T 
Taking Care of Business T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lucky Charms 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: rockratrei on Jun 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Near the top. Climb the crack then traverse the Wh...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crack 5 ft to the left of Senior Moment.
Climb the varnished crack to the rotten over hang, then traverse left 15 ft on white rock up through the slot in the bulge.

Location 

To desend, traverse 20 ft across a large ledge to a 2 bolt anchcor.

Protection 

SR


Photos of Lucky Charms Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Lucky Charms
BETA PHOTO: Start of Lucky Charms

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By Ron Graham
Oct 21, 2011

This route is tons of fun, but it feels more like it should be rated 5.5 or 5.6 than 5.7. It has tons of good holds and protects well from bottom to top. The hardest moves are the final ones as you climb up through the bulge to the finish ledge. The bulge protects well with a #4 cam, and you can also sling a jug handle below the bulge. There's no need to traverse very far to rappel the route; an anchor has been tied to a bush just East of where you top out. The route can be rappeled with a single 60 meter rope.
By William Fry
From: Kalispell, MT
Mar 18, 2013

When you say a #4 cam at the bulge, How big is a #4 cam? Thank you.
By Offwidth UK
Dec 11, 2015

Climbed this yesterday...felt 5.6. Someone had very recently added a 5.6 sport route up the huecos just left with a new rap anchor in the softish white rock at the crux exit slot.. not the safest looking permanent anchor and pretty rude encroachment on a trad climb!? We also climbed a pleasant 25m slab exit up and right (about 5.4R) so we could link to the amazing Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, 5.7, just up above.

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