|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001|
|Comments on Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 1, 2008
Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low today with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already.
Kudos to Matt who had to finish drilling the last inch by hand when the battery went dead in the drill, all while racing the oncoming darkness.
Also, I think this route would benefit from a bolted anchor to be shared with Leprechaun instead of the slung boulder on the ledge. Just my two cents on the matter.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Sep 25, 2009
|This is a really fun climb. Well worth getting on if you're a confident face climber at the grade. I felt the crux moves were pretty thin, and, in my case, protected only by a #3 BD brass that I got about 12 or 13 feet above at one point. Very exciting.|