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Lucille 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jay Anderson, Mike Freidrichs, 1988
Page Views: 11,992
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Pamela Pack, the first woman to climb and flash Lu...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the distinctive (and impossible to mistake) offwidth/squeeze chimney roof. Climb Best of the Blues (10b), the crack below with a small fist crack roof, to get to the belay cave for this monstrosity. Then go up. Go out at the roof, then go up when the roof ends. Be creative and you might score the 6th ascent!

Protection 

Big, very big. Bigbros, big Cams, big balls, and some TR chains if you don't think you're up to it.


Photos of Lucille Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting horizontal. Notice the direction the Camal...
Getting horizontal. Notice the direction the Camal...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta flash.  Belayed by Pamela Pack and photo by Z...
Beta flash. Belayed by Pamela Pack and photo by Z...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Lucille, the iconic Vedauwoo offwi...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of Lucille, the iconic Vedauwoo offwi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Center crack: Lucille; Right Crack: Hassler's Hatb...
BETA PHOTO: Center crack: Lucille; Right Crack: Hassler's Hatb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Close, but no cigar.  The belayer is Mike Friedric...
Close, but no cigar. The belayer is Mike Friedric...
Rock Climbing Photo: The heinous entrance move ...
The heinous entrance move ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into Lucille ...
Getting into Lucille ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Su onsighting Lucille ...
Steve Su onsighting Lucille ...

Comments on Lucille Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 1, 2016
By Adam Holmes
Jul 7, 2003

I thought the FA on this line was Craig Leubben and he even got written up in one of the mags for it. Or maybe it was just the 2nd ascent. Either way, this is a very impressive looking route that I never want to climb.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2003

Supposedly Scarpelli and Luebben let Jay Anderson work it until he completed it (over a span of nearly 10 years). I don't know if Scarpelli has done it yet (I imagine he has), but Luebben did it just after Jay Anderson did. If I remember correctly, Luebben onsighted it.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 4, 2003

Took a thorough look at this thing yesterday (my partner made it to the very edge of the roof where one starts going up again, all on TR). I don't have the words to describe it. Incredible. BTW, unless you can lead it, you need a 60m rope to toprope this thing, the rope hits the ground about 10 feet out from the base of Best of the Blues (10b). You can't start from the base of the climb proper.
By Handsome B. Wonderful
Oct 21, 2004

Just to set some things straight. Craig Luebben was the first person to on-sight Lucille and he got the second ascent 7 years after Jay got the first ascent. This climb is a lot easier for skinny folks with skinny arms. It is just plain hard to get the necessary chicken wings in this thing if you have big guns. There are a few other offwidths at Vedauwoo that have not received the hype of Lucille that are probably much harder, but who am I to say? Go find out for yourself. Btw. The single most difficult move is probably getting through the roof on Best of the Blues. Don't be intimidated, this is a fantastic climb.
By OW Poser
Jun 27, 2008

I belayed my wife Pamela on Lucille today and she onsighted with style!
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2008

Congrats to Pamela! Probably the first female ascent, eh? I had a hard enough time with the 5.10 OW crack to the left of Lucille/BB, somebody should add this to the database.
By spectreman
Jul 2, 2008

That is Bad Ass!!! Way to go on the send, Pamela.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Yesterday my friend and offwidth mentor Steve Su onsighted this route after warming up with his first ascent of Squat. I've definitely seen him struggle a lot harder, meaning he did it elegantly and patiently. Getting into the crack is a virtual re-entrance into the womb. A must do!
By Jay Anderson
Nov 2, 2009

Pamela, of course rocks!

Anonymous C, check the public record before embarrassing yourself with Spew. Luebben was in diapers climbing wise at the time of the first ascent. Bob has never climbed it, at least as of 8/09 when I last saw him.
It was 8 years before the the 2nd, but yes he did flash. We all have our strengths, he thought Squat, and Trench Warfare were hard. RIP, Craig.

Bellyful of Bad Berries is the hardest of that bunch.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 12, 2010

I would love to see a video of someone putting this up. Wide fetish dot com, where are you? ;)
By Greg Cameron
Aug 14, 2011

To me (who couldn't manage to finish it), the entrance move was RELATIVELY (relative to the rest of the climb) easy. I found the hardest part to be just before you get to vertical. In between, you go for a number of moves while in the horizontal position. I love this climb, and salute Jay Anderson for putting it up (and writing so eloquently about his experience).
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 5, 2016

I was curious earlier why some were downgrading the route, after climbing it the other day, I can see that potentially tall folks could go all the way to the end of the rail before entering the squeeze at the mega flare. That would enable folks to skip the past the construction, but you would need to be pretty tall. That could make it easier, but even at 5' 10" I appreciated entering the squeeze earlier. No matter which way you do it, Lucille is a brilliant, and absolutely stunning route!!
By JNE
Aug 7, 2016

The people I have talked to who downgraded this climb all said it was a body-size dependent rating in that if you chimney so deeply that you can't get good chicken wings. The thing is hard, but if you stay at a depth where you can get good chicken wings, it feels like other 11+ to 12- OWs at Vedauwoo. This would make sense from the standpoint of the FA as I am pretty sure Jay had to tunnel way back in and up to get adequate protection for the lip, so he probably stayed buried in it and found the difficulty on the harder side, whereas everyone I talked to who has repeated it just goes with a big cam walked above them most of the way, if not the entire way, and stays at a depth where textbook chicken wings are apparently available. This makes sense given nearly every single one of the repeaters did the route within a handful of tries, with most of them having little to no experience on even hard 5.12 OW, let alone hard 5.12 of any style.

Personally, I found this huge disparity between the actual difficulty and the guidebook difficulty off-putting mainly, because it allowed intellectually dishonest people to claim to have gone above and beyond, then project all the "hate" regarding their bullshit claims onto others, with the negative aspect of this being that these intellectually dishonest people managed to project their dishonest character onto others and subsequently represent their poor character as some sort of ideal to aspire to. Although some might think pointing this out is petty, given this has transpired on such a high profile for the area climb, it has been instrumental in directing the social culture of this area: intellectual dishonesty and projection of one's poor character and bullshit onto others has become the accepted norm for the people who frequent the area, and it has become the accepted practice to get credit for going above and beyond by outright bullshit and lies, either concerning ones own abilities or the relative abilities of others.

Folks, get used to having this reputation, or do something to change it. You have certainly earned it, and not from any of my contributions. You earned it by rewarding bullshit and lies, and thus delineated a clear path for people to get the respect they are seeking.

That all being said, one thing all the repeaters said was that this is a world class experience for this style of climbing. The moves, rock, and position on this climb are all said to make it one of, if not THE, finest route at Vedauwoo.
By bart cubrich 1
Sep 1, 2016

Taking the biners off this route is kind of lame. They were left up there to make the route easier to clean.

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